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Boat Forum / Building / May 2005side decks
i have a 38 rival sailboat with solid glass side decks. on top of the deck was teak which i have removed and im almost finished fairing.i plan on using interlux brightside witn intergrip added for non skid properties. with the deck being solid glass there is some flexing when i walk on the deck. does anybody think i will have problems with the paint cracking or falling off? under the deck the hull to deck joint is glassed together with about 6 inches of overlap then a small stringer running from stern to bow,then there is about 6 or 7 inches of solid glass until you reach another stringer at the edge before the radius to form the coach sides then roof. the flexing is mostly in the 6 or 7 inches between the hull to deck joint and the radius. im sure teak had no structural purpose only non skid and looks. if anybody has any advice or comments it would be greatly appreciated. shpuld i ad more glass under the deck? and more stringers running from the deck joint to the inner edge? or perhaps core the entire area between all the bulkheads? or just leave it be and hope the paint does nt crack or peel off. > with the deck being solid glass there is some flexing when > i walk on the deck. does anybody think i will have problems with the > paint cracking or falling off? <snip> Don't know about the paint but flexing decks are a problem IMHO. Lew > > with the deck being solid glass there is some flexing when > > i walk on the deck. does anybody think i will have problems with the [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Lew what is imho? the flexing is only between bulkheads whem you walk on it it feels soft. these boats were designed and built for ocean sailing so i imagin they knew what they were doing. do you think i should reinforce it somehow? any ideas >Lew what is imho? the flexing is only between bulkheads whem you walk on it it feels soft. these boats were designed and built for ocean sailing so i imagin they knew what they were doing. do you think i should reinforce it somehow? any ideas In My Humble Opinion. You raise more questions than I can answer at this time. 1) Are the decks cored or solid? If cored, is the core mushy? If the decks are solid, do you have an interior head liner covering the deck glass or is the deck glass directly available from inside the boat? Questions, questions, questions. Lew > >Lew what is imho? the flexing is only between bulkheads > [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Lew the decks are solid glass and the headliner panel has been removed so i could remove the deck hardware >>Lew >the decks are solid glass and the headliner panel has been removed >so i could remove the deck hardware The easiest way to stiffen the side decks based on your description would be to loose fit a piece of foam, say 3/4" Divinycell, to the underside of the deck, then remove it and glass all exposed foam surfaces with a couple of layers of 10 oz cloth. After it cures, install it using some 5200 adhesive. Allow the 5200 to cure at least a week, then remount all the deck hardware you had to remove to fit the foam in the first place. The 5200 will not be as strong as if the foam was glassed directly to the bottom of the side deck; however, it should be strong enough and it eliminates trying to lay glass overhead. Lew > >>Lew > [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > Lew that sounds like a good idea. should i glass both sides of the foam? i think i might use my left over west system epoxy thickend with 404 high density filler. im not sure ill have to measure but 3/4 will probably be to thick because of the amount of space between the headliner and deck plus i have to fit bolts in the area. the only deck hardware is a genoa track which i might move closer to the hull to deck joint overlap which is 7-8 inches in that area, all other hardware was placed in the overlap area where the deck seems very strong. i might have to go with 3/8 divivycell. do you think the heat from the epoxy kikking off might damage the primer or paint? thanks for all your help. i might be abel to get some kladgucel localy is this the same type product. >>>>Lew >> [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] >> >>Lew that sounds like a good idea. >should i glass both sides of the foam? Reread and understand my previous post. i think i might use my left over west system epoxy thickend with 404 high density filler. Use it for fairing compound, it is not laminating resin. >im not sure ill have to measure but 3/4 will probably be to thick because of the amount of space between the headliner and deck plus i have to fit bolts in the area. You need to allow 1" of gap between deck glass and head liner to cover the foam + the glass on both sides of the foam. I won't bore you with moment of inertia calculations but the stiffness of a member varies as the cube of the thickness. Thickness is good. If that is a problem, sh.t can the head liner and fair out the foam and glass to look right in this area. Forget it, see above. >do you think the heat from the epoxy kikking off might damage >the primer or paint? Not if you do it my way. >i might be abel to get some kladgucel Do you mean Klegcell? >localy is this the same type product. If so, yes. Lew > > with the deck being solid glass there is some flexing when > > i walk on the deck. does anybody think i will have problems with the [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Lew >i have a 38 rival sailboat with solid glass side decks. on top of the . im sure teak had no structural purpose only non skid and looks. On what basis are you sure the teak had no structural purpose? Teak is a VERY strong and stable timber the teak was only 3/16 of an inch. if it was meant to be structural wouldnt it need to be thicker. and it was advertised by the builderas an add on for a traditional look, saying nothing about strength. >i have a 38 rival sailboat with solid glass side decks. on top of the >deck was teak which i have removed and im almost finished fairing.i [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > Are you sure the decks are solid glass? Generally they have a wood or foam core and flexing decks means water has gotten to the wood core and there is disbondment (and probably rot too). Correct fix it to completely take apart, but just about everyone simply injects thin solvent free epoxy that will bond to damp surfaces into holes drilled into the deck down to the cure material.  Signature"Living on Earth is expensive, but it does include a free trip around the Sun every year." ============================================ PAUL OMAN Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. Frog Pond Hollow - 48 Wildwood Drive Pittsfield NH 03263 10:30-3:30 Monday-Thur EST 603-435-7199 VISA/MC/Discover/Paypal info@epoxyproducts.com http://www.epoxyproducts.com ============================================ |
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