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Boat Forum / Building / September 2005proper linking for 2 anchor chain segments ?
With objectives of: 1-proper strength 2-avoiding interference with the windlass 3-segment disconnect when desired & avoiding compromising #s 1 & 2 what is the recommended technique for durably connecting two lengths of same size anchor chain ? Thank you, Courtney > With objectives of: > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Courtney I am not aware of anything which accomplishes all of your objectives. The only thing I will point out is that if your chain is galvanized steel, your solution must be made of the same thing (unless it is not metal...). Otherwise you will run into oxidation problems. For example, if you used a hypothetical stainless steel carabiner to join the two segments, the stainless steel (SS) would cause the galvanization to quickly be exhausted, and you would end up with rust near the pristine SS. Also, if you used two shackles, and seized the pins with SS or monel wire, you would have the same problem. The shackles and nearby links would quickly corrode, acting as anodes to the SS or monel. This is why it is better to use cheap galvanized steel wire. The steel will not rust until all of the galvanization nearby has worn off, and it will not accelerate the wearing off of the galvanization on nearby links. If you find a suitable solution, please post about it. I have hitherto considered it impossible to join two segments of chain without sacrificing 1, 2, and/or 3. --Mac >>With objectives of: >> [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > > --Mac FOrgive my ignorance when asking this, but what is wrong with a standard galvanized repair link? THe screw link items are as strong as the chain tha they link (at least to about 85%) and can be purchased made from galvanized steel. They are VERY close in dimension to the links tha they are designed to repair. While they are not as easy to remove as a carabiner, they are removable with 2 wrenches. so what am I missing??  SignatureMy diesel truck has been modified to run on an environmentally friendly mixture of clean burning Caribou fat and whale oil. Looking for a good fight is not the same as finding one worth having... >>>With objectives of: >>> [quoted text clipped - 43 lines] > > so what am I missing?? Well, I suppose the first requirement given by the OP, "proper strength," is open to some interpretation. I interpreted it to mean "same strength as a regular link." That is why I rejected the repair link. If your interpretation is "85% of the strength of a regular link," then I guess you are right. We'll have to wait and see if the OP gives his/her definition. ;-) --Mac The objective is for the connector to at least equal the strength of the original chain's links while not interfering with the windlass and be non-destructively disconnectable. I neglected to include... preferably made of galvanized steel. I realize it probably doesn't exist but I hoped someone would prove me wrong, again :-) Thanks to all, Courtney >>>>With objectives of: >>>> [quoted text clipped - 54 lines] > > --Mac http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/productdetail.jsp?xi=xi&ItemId=1611778337&ccitem= Grainger Item: 5A722 Try this? > The objective is for the connector to at least equal the strength of the > original chain's links while not interfering with the windlass and be [quoted text clipped - 67 lines] >> >>--Mac SignatureMy diesel truck has been modified to run on an environmentally friendly mixture of clean burning Caribou fat and whale oil. "Tolerance is the virtue of a man without convictions" G.K. Chesterton I don't remember where I bought them, but my junk box includes several hot dipped galvanized versions of http://acmehardware.com/product_detail.aspx?sku=2313104 They're cheap enough for you to test against your winch capstan. Roger derbyrm@NOSPAMearthlinkNOSPAM.net http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm > With objectives of: > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Courtney I'd join the sections with a "D" shackle of the same size and material, tighten the pin really well and peen the thread end or pin punch the end of it, grind the eye off the pin, smooth it up and "Bob's your uncle". I've done this to anchor chains for 100-150 ton boats, 450 lb.+ anchors. Most times too, we'd spot the end of the pin with a welder for absolute security. Don an old boat goat > With objectives of: > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Courtney > I'd join the sections with a "D" shackle of the same size and material, > tighten the pin really well and peen the thread end or pin punch the end of [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Don > an old boat goat Don, does this pass through the gypsy OK? Also, is this better (i.e., stronger) than the repair link suggestion posted by dazed and confused? Finally, can it be disconnected easily as per requirement number 3 of the original poster? Certainly not if you hit it with a welder! Personally, I think the original poster is looking for a magic solution which doesn't exist. Probably the closest thing is to buy a bunch of repair links, use them as needed, and cut them with bolt-cutters or a disk grinder when the two chain segments need to be separated. It may also be possible to use two over-size shackles to join two chain segments without compromising strength, but I don't think this will pass through the gypsy, and it may be hard to undo the shackles if they are left underwater for a long time. --Mac >> With objectives of: >> [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >> >> Courtney If the shackle is more or less matched to the chain I don't think it'll jam in the gypsy. A shackle is definitely stronger than those repair links. I know this doesn't satisfy #3 but I can't think of any reason to part an anchor chain once you've made it up anyway. If it's an issue he should probably use a "D" shackle with a wired pin Don an old boat goat >> I'd join the sections with a "D" shackle of the same size and material, >> tighten the pin really well and peen the thread end or pin punch the end [quoted text clipped - 39 lines] >>> >>> Courtney What about cutting a regular link, joining the two lengths of chain, and rewelding the cut link? Would the working of the link and the rewelding weaken it too much? As for requirement 3, you could always just cut it again. Lee Huddleston s/v Truelove Kenter shackles are used for this job. See http://www.anchormarinehouston.com/Kenter.html > With objectives of: > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Courtney Big, aren't they? 5/8" minimum -- Would they really go thru a windless designed for 3/8" chain? Roger derbyrm@NOSPAMearthlinkNOSPAM.net http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm > Kenter shackles are used for this job. > See http://www.anchormarinehouston.com/Kenter.html >> With objectives of: >> 1-proper strength >> 2-avoiding interference with the windlass >> 3-segment disconnect when desired & avoiding compromising #s 1 & 2 >> what is the recommended technique for durably connecting two lengths of >> same size anchor chain ? |
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