Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
Home
Discussion GroupsBoatsPaddle BoatsSailingCruisingBuildingElectronics
Related Topics
CarsMotorcyclesMore Topics ...

Boat Forum / Building / October 2005



Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

Water in Bilge

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
louishong@lycos.com - 17 Oct 2005 06:13 GMT
There's several gallons of sea water in my aluminum bayrunner and I
can't figure out how to get it out.  When I'm in the water on full
throttle the boat doesn't tilt enough to push all the water to the back
where the bilge pump is located.

Even on the trailer with it fully tilted up on the boat ramp I can't
empty it out.  It's not flooded but there's several gallons and I'd
like to get it out.  Does anyone have any suggestions?  Also, I'm
guessing that the salt water sitting around for weeks isn't good for
the aluminum hull.
Al Thomason - 17 Oct 2005 06:26 GMT
Wet/dry shop vac works well for me to get those last drops :-)

-al-

>There's several gallons of sea water in my aluminum bayrunner and I
>can't figure out how to get it out.  When I'm in the water on full
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>guessing that the salt water sitting around for weeks isn't good for
>the aluminum hull.
MMC - 17 Oct 2005 13:35 GMT
And a Mark 1, Mod 0 bucket for the rest!
> Wet/dry shop vac works well for me to get those last drops :-)
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> >guessing that the salt water sitting around for weeks isn't good for
> >the aluminum hull.
Peggie Hall - 21 Oct 2005 15:15 GMT
> There's several gallons of sea water in my aluminum bayrunner and I
> can't figure out how to get it out.  When I'm in the water on full
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> empty it out.  It's not flooded but there's several gallons and I'd
> like to get it out.  Does anyone have any suggestions?  

A shop vac or dinghy bailer (manual pump), a bucket, a big sponge and
some manual labor.

Even if the bilge pump could get rid of most of it, bilge pumps can't
get all the water...some runs back down the hose when the pump shuts off
that should always be pumped out/mopped up each time you put the boat
away.  If you don't, it'll sit and stagnate into a stinky "primordial
soup" in your bilge.

Signature

Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=40&cat=6&page=1
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detail.tpl?fno=400&group=327

Rick - 21 Oct 2005 22:41 GMT
>> There's several gallons of sea water in my aluminum bayrunner and I
>> can't figure out how to get it out.  When I'm in the water on full
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> away.  If you don't, it'll sit and stagnate into a stinky "primordial
> soup" in your bilge.

Am I missing something here? My Bilge is self-Draining when the boat is
out of the water.

R.
MMC - 22 Oct 2005 14:52 GMT
I think people are naturally assuming it is a much more difficult problem
that getting water out of an open boat (as your original post indicates)
since you wrote and asked advice.

> >> There's several gallons of sea water in my aluminum bayrunner and I
> >> can't figure out how to get it out.  When I'm in the water on full
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
> R.
Terry Spragg - 24 Oct 2005 00:01 GMT
> I think people are naturally assuming it is a much more difficult problem
> that getting water out of an open boat (as your original post indicates)
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>>
>>R.

Mine drains well with the plug out too, except that the engine bilge
limber hole is plugged to contain dripping oil and stop it moving to
the bilge under the cabin.

So the cabin bilge doesn't drain that way, not that it would because
it's up hill from the cabin bilge to the prop and engine compartment
bilge.

So I occasionally need to pump a gallon or two of what can only be
condensation and elusive overhead drips accumulated under the cabin,
which is not enough to start the main bilge pump until the water is
an inch or more deep in the cabin, as the main bilge is only an inch
deep and wraps closely under the concave cabin sole. Our cabin sole
is like a submarine's in that no matter how the boat rocks and
rolls, you always can stand in the bottom of the boat, like it was a
sewer pipe, or submarine. The engine compartment bilge gets pumped
by hand into a pop bottle for oil seperation from packing box drips
and recycling, as every day of moderate engine use, it drips half a
liter of oil from I can't figure out where.  It's an atomic two, any
experience out there?

With the engine apart in the cabin now, hopefully by spring it will
no longer leak oil, and then  I can re-open the limber hole and pump
clean prop shaft drips normally, but by hand, as the automatic bilge
pump will never get that last gallon. That we get with a manual
suction line snuck down under the lowest point under the cabin.

Every boat's got it's own personality, eh?

Terry K
MMC - 25 Oct 2005 14:02 GMT
"Every boat's got it's own personality, eh?"
Very true!
Do you have enough access around your engine to clean off the oil and
inspect with a inspection mirror?
Worked for my when my timing gear cover gasket was leaking.
MMC

> > I think people are naturally assuming it is a much more difficult problem
> > that getting water out of an open boat (as your original post indicates)
[quoted text clipped - 53 lines]
>
> Terry K
Terry Spragg - 26 Oct 2005 15:34 GMT
> "Every boat's got it's own personality, eh?"
> Very true!
> Do you have enough access around your engine to clean off the oil and
> inspect with a inspection mirror?
> Worked for my when my timing gear cover gasket was leaking.
> MMC

Finding and inspecting the leak scared it dry? Makes me think of
Medusa in a mirror!

Do you also have an atomic two engine?  Officially, its a westerbeke
universal medallion atomic two.  The crank main bearing shells cost
65 bucks per half shell! Userious? I ground down some cheapies that
were a little wide, and cost 6 bucks a pair.

The companionway engine compartment has a glassed in bulkhead
between it and the main cabin, about 6" tall, with front engine
compartment hatch cover removed, with a limber hole plugged with a
cork. I could chainsaw that down, but then oily bilge could overtop
it and mess up the carpet in the saloon.

I would need to chop it somewhat to get the flywheel off while the
engine is at home and get a peek under the engine from the front.
The engine beds protect the privacy of the bilge rats below the
engine.  What the heck do bilge rats want to play around down there
for?  We keep sending Christian-white evangelist protheletizers down
there on missions to save them, but our missionaries all get
corrupted and come back with those stains from the devil's excrement
darkening and flooding their souls;-)

The engine, only 9.99999.... horse, is light enough I can yank it by
myself.  I like being as self sufficient as possible. So, it's going
to pieces on the stbd quarter berth, as we dally here. The timing
gear train cover may go next, as I have got the flywheel off but can
see no sign of leakage there.  The front crank seal was replaced 3
years ago by a mech. In all probably hasn't 100 hours since then,
but something has been continuing to leak while running ever since.

I thought it was leaking around the Wico magneto lower mount bolt,
but epoxying a stud in it's place made no difference.  I found that
the tapped hole for the mounting bolt was broken out at he bottom of
the hole, leaving a chance for the oil to come out there.  I tried
many things, sealer etc, to stem that, to no effect.

It must be coming from somewhere else. The valve cover plate is off,
and the gasket seems good, with a new one whittled ready to put back
on. The oil pan gasket is new, and tight.  Once the tranny leaks
down to it's gearshift shaft level, there is no more oil coming out
there. Anyway, that leak is red, not black.

I'm going mad thinking what next. I finally have the engine and
carburettor at a state of reliability and manageability that
I can tolerate, except for this.

After the oil leak, perhaps a thermostat and even hot water for the
head basin?

It seems I am the only A-2 owner out here.  Is there anyone else
that is savvy to these engines?

Terry K

>>>I think people are naturally assuming it is a much more difficult
>
[quoted text clipped - 62 lines]
>>
>>Terry K
Roger Derby - 26 Oct 2005 16:13 GMT
It's possible that Westerbeke took a page from MG and used porous cast iron
for the block.  Those spacious "boots" on the 1950s models were not for
luggage, they were for cases of oil.

Roger
derbyrm@NOSPAMearthlinkNOSPAM.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm

>> "Every boat's got it's own personality, eh?"
>> Very true!
[quoted text clipped - 123 lines]
>>>
>>>Terry K
MMC - 28 Oct 2005 18:57 GMT
Nope, got a Perkins 4-107. The mirror helped me find where the oil was
leaking so that I could fix the leak.

> > "Every boat's got it's own personality, eh?"
> > Very true!
[quoted text clipped - 124 lines]
> >>
> >>Terry K
basilkies@yahoo.com - 23 Oct 2005 15:10 GMT
>There's several gallons of sea water in my aluminum bayrunner and I
>can't figure out how to get it out.  When I'm in the water on full
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>guessing that the salt water sitting around for weeks isn't good for
>the aluminum hull.

Buy yourself a small bilge pump, they are pretty cheap, and install it
in the lowest part of the bilge.

If possible, it would be a good thing to encourage air flow threw the
bilge, also. Even if, you only open it up when it is on the trailer.
Your boat cover should have a vent in the front and a vent in the rear
to facilitate air movement. You could encourage more air movement by
having a fan blow throught there. Just plug it in to a timer and have
it come on during what is most often the driest, warmest part of the
day.
Brian D - 23 Oct 2005 17:12 GMT
Sounds like your problem is probably long-term so I'd first recommend a
permanent installation of a bilge pump in the lowest portion of the hull and
make sure that other chambers that flood are all limbered to it properly.
But for temporary use not that you can buy an electric-drill powered water
pump also.  Our local hardware store carries them and they are cheap.  Just
stick one hose in the water and the other hose where you want the water to
go, put the drive shaft in your drill's chuck and off you go.

Brian D

>>There's several gallons of sea water in my aluminum bayrunner and I
>>can't figure out how to get it out.  When I'm in the water on full
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> it come on during what is most often the driest, warmest part of the
> day.
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2009 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.