I have an aluminum casting which has broken. Does anyone have any
experiences or recommendations on the likelyhood of success, glueing
it back together with epoxy? I have West System on hand, and can
fairly easily get other products (e.g. Aluminax). Any tips,
techniques, or pitfalls I should be aware of?
thanks,
John
Rick - 11 Nov 2005 23:30 GMT
> I have an aluminum casting which has broken. Does anyone have any
> experiences or recommendations on the likelyhood of success, glueing
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> John
I can't speak to glueing but, I have very good luck with various
aluminum parts being welded. Several of the pieces have been in service
for 5 years with no problems and the cost was about $25.00(US) each.
Rick
Brian Whatcott - 12 Nov 2005 00:28 GMT
>I have an aluminum casting which has broken. Does anyone have any
>experiences or recommendations on the likelyhood of success, glueing
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
>John
If the casting is ornamental, there is no reason why an epoxy glueup
would not work for you.
But if the casting takes a knock, or sustains any load at all really,
you should be wary.
Think about the numbers:
epoxy 2 part glue - tensile 2500 to 5000 lb/sq in
Aluminum alloy casting 10 - 30 thousand psi
If the casting in question has fairly thick wallls - say 1/2 inch or
more - but not more than 1 inch thick at the break - and you don't
need to maintain an anodized colored surface, you should tote it to a
weld shop with aluminum MIG or TIG expertise.
Brian Whatcott Altus OK
John McCoy - 12 Nov 2005 23:31 GMT
> If the casting is ornamental, there is no reason why an epoxy glueup
> would not work for you.
> But if the casting takes a knock, or sustains any load at all really,
> you should be wary.
It takes no significant load, so I'm not too worried about that.
> If the casting in question has fairly thick wallls - say 1/2 inch or
> more - but not more than 1 inch thick at the break - and you don't
> need to maintain an anodized colored surface, you should tote it to a
> weld shop with aluminum MIG or TIG expertise.
It would be tedious to remove the one part, which is why I'm
hoping to be able to re-attach the broken part w/ some sort
of adhesive. My experience with welding castings (as opposed
to sheet/plate stock) is that the chance of success is highly
dependant on the skill of the welder, and welders who've worked
with castings aren't overly common. So if I was to remove both
parts, I'd probably go ahead & replace with new (even tho that's
a considerable cost).
I beleive I will try glueing it w/ the West System that's on
hand, and see how it goes.
Thanks to all who offered advice & suggestions.
John
imagineero - 23 Nov 2005 12:47 GMT
you're dead right in your views about welding cast parts... its
tricky, as noted by one other poster noted due to the manganese and
silicone content. I've done a fair bit of work repairing cast exhaust
manifolds, some with tig, but mostly with a torch. The tig can be made
to do it, but you usually need to have at least 3-5 layers of weld to
get a satisfactory result. exhausts are complicated a lot by the
deposits on the inside of then though, so other casts are not as
difficult. I've had good success with lawn mowers. If you are going
into a shop, call around and see who will do it with gas. its true
that using the flame is harder, but in general i think you'll find that
only a few shops will have anyone who can braze at all, and those you
find will be old school old timers who know their stuff. Just finding
someone like this is a worhtwhile experience. You'll want to keep
their number as they will build up old parts with wear bronze, can
usually operate a lathe and mill and often undercharge for their time.
craftsment are disapearing
William R. Watt - 12 Nov 2005 02:09 GMT
There was a discussion in this newsgroup recently about gluing broken
aluminum with epoxy. It seems instantaneous oxidation of exposed aluminum
prevents a good bond with epoxy.
> I have an aluminum casting which has broken. Does anyone have any
> experiences or recommendations on the likelyhood of success, glueing
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> John
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Roger Derby - 12 Nov 2005 03:15 GMT
It's been suggested that one first coats the aluminum with the epoxy. Then,
while it's still liquid, scrub the aluminum with a wire brush to cut thru
the oxidation and permit a bond to the real aluminum.
Roger (I haven't tried this, myself.)
derbyrm@NOSPAMearthlinkNOSPAM.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm
> There was a discussion in this newsgroup recently about gluing broken
> aluminum with epoxy. It seems instantaneous oxidation of exposed aluminum
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm
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Sal's Dad - 12 Nov 2005 21:49 GMT
I have tried this myself - using a grinder to "wet-sand" aluminum plate,
using resin as a wetting agent. Then mixed the epoxy directly on the plate,
working in well.
Held up for a few years, but eventually bond broke. Of course, it may have
had something to do with the aluminum being used as a "skid plate" under the
bow of a plywood boat, for hard ledge landings. The 1/8 plate was worn more
than halfway through before it de-laminated.
Good luck, and let us know how i works!
Sal's Dad
> It's been suggested that one first coats the aluminum with the epoxy.
> Then, while it's still liquid, scrub the aluminum with a wire brush to cut
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>> warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's
>> returned
Denis Marier - 12 Nov 2005 23:30 GMT
I have noticed that when using epoxy on die cast aluminum the results are
not always good.
The same thing goes when trying to weld die cast aluminum or any castings
produced with re - cycled aluminum. Extrusion stock or investment castings
done with virgin aluminum blended with alloys can be welded and bonded with
epoxy resin much better. In order to make money die casting companies have
to use re - cycled aluminum. This is because it does not stick to the
ejection mold and production speed can be increased to maximum. On average
the composition of re - cycled aluminum contains large percentage of
manganese, iron and silicon. When involve in Military contract and similar
projects a chemical analyses certificate of the aluminum is requested and
has to be validated.
> I have tried this myself - using a grinder to "wet-sand" aluminum plate,
> using resin as a wetting agent. Then mixed the epoxy directly on the plate,
[quoted text clipped - 39 lines]
> >> warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's
> >> returned
JEM - 13 Nov 2005 12:51 GMT
System Three makes a product called Met Weld. I have no experience with
it but it might be worth investigating.
No left turn - 14 Nov 2005 22:38 GMT
Check into 3M DP 810 2 part epoxy.
Works great !
RS Hughes in Dallas carries it.
> System Three makes a product called Met Weld. I have no experience with
> it but it might be worth investigating.
Paul Oman - 15 Nov 2005 02:10 GMT
>I have an aluminum casting which has broken. Does anyone have any
>experiences or recommendations on the likelyhood of success, glueing
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>John
>
We usually suggest sanding then coating immediately with epoxy. Another
possibility would be sanding the aluminum then priming with a moisture
cured urethane prior to the epoxy.
If you have extra pieces of the aluminum you can send them to me and I
will try a few different approaches and send back to you for your "testing."
paul oman - progressive epoxy polymers
-- ===========
John McCoy - 22 Nov 2005 15:29 GMT
Well, I tried it, without success. The main problem being that I
was unable to clamp the two parts securely without removing the
"fixed" part.
So, I've ordered a replacement part (which, Murphy's law being in
effect, is back-ordered). I may try glueing the broken one again
after it's removed, to save as a spare, perhaps with the Metweld
or 3M DP810 which have been recommended in this thread.
Thanks again to everyone for the suggestions.
John