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Boat Forum / Building / November 2005disposable power tools
I know that boatbuilding subjects tools to much more wear than the average homeowner gives his power tools but I now have: Dead Craftsman sabre saw Dead B&D sander Dead B&D sabre saw Dying B&D drill Dying B&D cordless drill I am sure I could get them replaced if not for free at least for reduced price but it isnt really worth the effort as I am more limited by time than money. Still, its a little annoying to suddenly have your sander die in use. I know I could fix these tools if I wanted but its just a matter of time and priority. > I know that boatbuilding subjects tools to much more wear than the > average homeowner gives his power tools but I now have: [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > your sander die in use. I know I could fix these tools if I wanted > but its just a matter of time and priority. You might want to consider "industrial" grade tools (yes, B&D makes them too). True, they cost more than "homeowner" grade but they die only infrequently... -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico >You might want to consider "industrial" grade tools (yes, B&D makes them >too). True, they cost more than "homeowner" grade but they die only >infrequently... If you buy good contractor grade tools they will last a lot longer and they can be fixed. DO NOTbuy brand name tools at the big discount houses (Home Cheapo, Lows, etc) . Milwalkee, DeWalt, Makita, and other name brands produce a grade of tool specifically for these places and you can't get parts. The gears and bearings are not the usual parts in the industrial grade tools. Most of these sub standard tools have the model number as XXXHD for the Depot model. I found this out the hard way when I went to get a few tool repaied after the gears blew out and the motor started to buzz due to worn bearings. You make a good case for the China grade stuff from Bargain Supply or Harbor Freight. Ugly, noisy, but effective. Examples that I'm happy with are my 4" grinder -- $8 dollars, dies only when really abused (I leaned a piece of newly welded, still hot, steel against the cord). Set of 18 volt cordless devices -- $130, crude and hard to adjust, but compare to $400 for Ryobi. (I have both in the 18 volt drill manifestation. The Ryobi is elegant and its clutch works better. Both are quite effective in making holes and driving screws. I don't keep adequate records, but it seems like the Ryobi batteries failed faster.) When I buy the brand name, I'm unhappy nearly as often. Dewalt put a bad casting in my biscuit jointer and then refused to admit that such could happen. It took many hours of filing and shimming before the slot was parallel to the edge of the timber. My Porter Cable saw has the blade on the left (my ill-informed choice) so I have to wear a face mask to keep the chips out of my face. Roger derbyrm@NOSPAMearthlinkNOSPAM.net http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm >>You might want to consider "industrial" grade tools (yes, B&D makes them >>too). True, they cost more than "homeowner" grade but they die only [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > way when I went to get a few tool repaied after the gears blew out and > the motor started to buzz due to worn bearings. >> I know that boatbuilding subjects tools to much more wear than the >> average homeowner gives his power tools but I now have: [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] >too). True, they cost more than "homeowner" grade but they die only >infrequently... Industrial quality American tools are the answer. Pick up a Milwaukee drill and a Makita in the other and note the difference. "They can take a f**king and keep on clucking." I was given a Milwaukee Sawzall, broken. It cost $65 dollars to repair with most of the money going to Milwaukee for a couple of replacement parts. It took several weeks and the on/off switch is still an iffy thing. But if you're saying that Milwaukee builds bigger muscles by being heavier ... Roger derbyrm@NOSPAMearthlinkNOSPAM.net http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm > Industrial quality American tools are the answer. > > Pick up a Milwaukee drill and a Makita in the other and note the > difference. > > "They can take a f**king and keep on clucking." >I was given a Milwaukee Sawzall, broken. It cost $65 dollars to repair with >most of the money going to Milwaukee for a couple of replacement parts. It >took several weeks and the on/off switch is still an iffy thing. Let's see here, you take a disused tool, attempt to repair it yourself, and then take your resultant lack of satisfaction as a demonstration of the quality of the tool. Right? Could there be any logical errors here? Actually, that was the bill from an outfit calling itself "Milwaukee Tool Repair" in Louisville, KY. They were quite apologetic about the several week delay and the high cost of parts. The firm has a good reputation amongst the professional contractors in the area. Logical errors are usually incorporated by the person constructing the strawman. Roger derbyrm@NOSPAMearthlinkNOSPAM.net http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm >>I was given a Milwaukee Sawzall, broken. It cost $65 dollars to repair >>with [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Could there be any logical errors here? > I know that boatbuilding subjects tools to much more wear than the > average homeowner gives his power tools but I now have: [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Dying B&D drill > Dying B&D cordless drill Doesn't surprise me. If you expect tools to survive, stay with brands like Bosch, Milwaukee, Delta. Avoid, B&D, Craftsman and Ryobi. Home Depot does not have the good tools they once had. Buying from them is a crap shoot, IMHO. Lew > If you expect tools to survive, stay with brands like Bosch, Milwaukee, > Delta. There is only one problem with good quality tools. You get attached to them so you try to find space on the boat for them so you don't have to leave them behind! I just cannot for the life of me figure a way to fit my Powermatic 66 cabinet saw in the back stateroom!  SignatureGlenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com <SNIP> > I just cannot for the life of me figure a way to fit my Powermatic 66 > cabinet saw in the back stateroom! Clearly, you've built the wring boat. I'll take RUTU and let you start again. I feel the same way about my Powermatic 66. It's the best tool in the shop. > I just cannot for the life of me figure a way to fit my Powermatic 66 > cabinet saw in the back stateroom! If it's some sort of table saw, remove the legs and build it into the settee(?) like one of those pop-up cabinet sewing machines? Could be difficult. They look like THIS and weigh about 600 lbs. > > I just cannot for the life of me figure a way to fit my Powermatic 66 > > cabinet saw in the back stateroom! > > If it's some sort of table saw, remove the legs and build it into the > settee(?) like one of those pop-up cabinet sewing machines? Some people like to bull your p---er. Blade diameter: 10 Maximum Rip Capacity: 50 Table dimensions: 38 x 28 Motor: 3 HP, 230 volts Table Construction: CI Weight: 605 Lbs http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Shop_Tools-All-Powermatic_66_Cabinet_Table_Saw However, if you must have it on-board, and you have the aux power to drive it, cut a hole in the upper deck and lower it in place. | > I just cannot for the life of me figure a way to fit my Powermatic 66 | > cabinet saw in the back stateroom! | | If it's some sort of table saw, remove the legs and build it into the | settee(?) like one of those pop-up cabinet sewing machines? TF Jones mentioned the lack of durability of hand held power drills in one of his books. So I've bought 3 old ones at garage sales for $1-$3. Unpainted aluminum casing, single speed, but they do the simple jobs and I haven't wasted a lot of money on them. >TF Jones mentioned the lack of durability of hand held power drills in one >of his books. So I've bought 3 old ones at garage sales for $1-$3. >Unpainted aluminum casing, single speed, but they do the simple jobs and I >haven't wasted a lot of money on them. Will, When is spending money _not_ wasting money for you? Just curious. pcf > When is spending money _not_ wasting money for you? When you get back more than you spend. Finding ways to spend as little as possible is just as interesting and creative as trying to get back as much as possible. They suppliment each other. :) >> When is spending money _not_ wasting money for you? > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >creative as trying to get back as much as possible. They suppliment each >other. :) Having a wider range of cheaper tools can be better than having fewer more expensive tools. Though sometimes the cheapest tool just can't do a job like a more expensive tool can. Eg a cheaper belt sander can do a reasonable job, but the cheapest palm/orbital sander often isn't a lot of good. cheers, Pete. Yes, there are "mistakes" for sale out there. My son bought a bench grinder. Looks good. Spins up the wheels -- until you put a screwdriver against the wheel. Then the 0.01 hp motor stalls. But cheap. I figure it's a gamble every time I buy a super bargain. That said, I've won more often than not. Roger derbyrm@NOSPAMearthlinkNOSPAM.net http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm >>> When is spending money _not_ wasting money for you? >> [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > Eg a cheaper belt sander can do a reasonable job, but the cheapest > palm/orbital sander often isn't a lot of good. If it's a tool which i will use a lot, i'll get the very best that i can afford (Powermatic, Festool, Fein, Porter-Cable, Milwaukee). If it's one which i won't use much, i'll buy a POS from Harbor Freight, Sears or Ryobi. I don't want to lose time because of a bad tool. > Yes, there are "mistakes" for sale out there. My son bought a bench > grinder. Looks good. Spins up the wheels -- until you put a screwdriver [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > > Eg a cheaper belt sander can do a reasonable job, but the cheapest > > palm/orbital sander often isn't a lot of good. > If it's a tool which i will use a lot, i'll get the very best that i can > afford (Powermatic, Festool, Fein, Porter-Cable, Milwaukee). If it's one > which i won't use much, i'll buy a POS from Harbor Freight, Sears or Ryobi. > I don't want to lose time because of a bad tool. Only a fool would argue with you. Lew You have to consider the guarantee too. If I can get a Ryobi or similar with a 2 year guarantee, from a supplier I expect to honour it, I figure it's a low risk "investment". Having said that, I love my Fein multi-tool .... Hobby use can be harder on power tools than trade use - tell me you haven't pushed a tool to the limit to get the job done, rather than go out and buy something more suitable. ( Glen excluded, I blame him for the Fein ... ) Re guarantees I'm giving my offspring some cheap watches purchased recently in China. The come with a guarantee in three parts. 1) They are guaranteed to be fake 2) They are guaranteed to have worked when demonstrated 3) The guarantee lasts 60 seconds after payment. David If a tool craps out and it's Sunday and you're at the boatyard, a warrantee is not much comfort. > You have to consider the guarantee too. If I can get a Ryobi or similar > with a 2 year guarantee, from a supplier I expect to honour it, I figure [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > David I had a bunch of 1/4 inch holes to drill and tap in some mild steel. I had two battery drills one top of the line Dewalt and one cheapo model. They both seemed to have the same amount of power but with the cheaper model I went through bits like crazy. I finally discovered that due to the cheap bearings in the cheap drill there was vibration in the chuck which ultimately ate the bits. In this instance the cost of the bits far out weighed the savings on the cheaper drill. |
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