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Boat Forum / Building / January 2006Heater Hose conundrum redux
OK. I have hung the water heater hose from the engine room ceiling. I am still worried about trapped air but just discovered Grainger part # 4A820. It is a float type automatic air vent made specifically for removing air from hot water heating systems. It vents air until if fills with water. Says it is glycol compatible, 240F max working temperature and works to 150 PSI. The vent can be sealed with a little screw so once the system is purged I can seal it off and it is only 3" high. Looks like the perfect solution. .  SignatureGlenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com I would sure be interested in how this device works out, Glenn. Is it made of material suitable for marine service (that is, no mild steel, etc? bob > OK. I have hung the water heater hose from the engine room ceiling. I am > still worried about trapped air but just discovered Grainger part # 4A820. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > purged I can seal it off and it is only 3" high. Looks like the perfect > solution. . I will go by Grainger this morning to pick one up. They are only about $7. It is made by Watts Regulator so it is probably red brass but in a normal engine room environment on the closed side of the cooling system it should be OK. I will dissect it and report back. SignatureGlenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com >I would sure be interested in how this device works out, Glenn. Is it made >of material suitable for marine service (that is, no mild steel, etc? [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >> the system is purged I can seal it off and it is only 3" high. Looks >> like the perfect solution. . I did mine differently... On the engine expansion tank (now no longer the high point in the system) I installed a 14 lb radiator cap, replacing the 7 lb cap. Then at the high point in the system (approximately...) I installed a small expansion tank (from Summit Racing, but could have been from anywhere), and put the 7 lb cap on it. Air collects in the tank (a little is necessary to accommodate the expansion when the coolant gets hot), and the engine expansion tank is now full to the brim. This cost more than your approach, but it doesn't have any moving parts... bob > I will go by Grainger this morning to pick one up. They are only about $7. > It is made by Watts Regulator so it is probably red brass but in a normal > engine room environment on the closed side of the cooling system it should > be OK. I will dissect it and report back. Well, it is brass with a high temp polyethylene float. It has to be mounted close to vertical to open. I was worried that when the engine cooled and the pressure dropped it would act as an anti-siphon valve and let air back into the system but after playing with it that does not seem to be a problem. I do believe however that after the system is purged it would be a good idea to close the outlet valve just in case and just open it when I am changing out the coolant. SignatureGlenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com >I will go by Grainger this morning to pick one up. They are only about $7. >It is made by Watts Regulator so it is probably red brass but in a normal [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] >>> screw so once the system is purged I can seal it off and it is only 3" >>> high. Looks like the perfect solution. . Glenn, when the system cools, air will re-enter the system thru the radiator cap - it is designed to do that > Well, it is brass with a high temp polyethylene float. It has to be mounted > close to vertical to open. I was worried that when the engine cooled and [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > a good idea to close the outlet valve just in case and just open it when I > am changing out the coolant. > Glenn, when the system cools, air will re-enter the system thru the > radiator cap - it is designed to do that The way I read the shop manual it won't if the overflow tank is set up right. It will suck the coolant back in that was pushed out as the engine heated up. SignatureGlenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com Ah. You have a NEWER engine... Mine is of the older vintage, where the expansion tank is part of the pressurized cooling system. However, the secondary expansion tank, located at/near the high point of your system, with a cap of lower pressure rating would still serve you well - it will need an overflow tank like your current and conventional expansion tank. Installation of this tank essentially moves the functionality of the expansion tank/overflow tank to the high point of the system where the air can be collected and expelled, while retaining the existing system as a backup. It differs from the air bleed valve only in that it uses radiator caps instead of the bleed valve. My request for how the air bleed valve works out was motivated by the concern that it might not work well at the low system pressures of an engine cooling system (say 7-20 psi). bob >>Glenn, when the system cools, air will re-enter the system thru the >>radiator cap - it is designed to do that > > The way I read the shop manual it won't if the overflow tank is set up > right. It will suck the coolant back in that was pushed out as the engine > heated up. > OK. I have hung the water heater hose from the engine room ceiling. I am > still worried about trapped air but just discovered Grainger part # 4A820. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > purged I can seal it off and it is only 3" high. Looks like the perfect > solution. Thanks for the info, Glenn... I'm going to invest in a few of these myself! DSK . |
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