Have a look at Sika's product called Sikaflex 295uv.
http://www.sikaindustry.com/tds-ipd-sikaflex295uv-us.pdf
You will probably need to use the primer with it on sandblasted steel. I
would give them a call and talk to the tech services group. They will
know for sure what to use.
Dan
MarshallE wrote:
> > Take a look at a 2 part polyurethane
> > We use this to bond polycarbonate to polycarbonate and have had great
> > success.
Does this allow >1/8" of adheasive for movment of structure?
>> Stay clear of any glues that are generating a chemical bond to the
> > P/C. Any glue that "attacks" the P/C will cause stress cracking at a later
> > date. (or at least this is what we found.....)
Many webpages list chemicals/cleaners that poly carb must avoid or are
compatible.
Jsut do your homework.
> > PS...make sure that the window material is not just polycarbonate but that
> > it is UV stabilized and explain that you will use it for a window
> > application.
There is a "UV protected" poly carb avalible. Some companies accomplish
this by applying a laminate "layer" on one side. The tech guy I
contacted said if the lexan is flexed the UV laminate will seperate
form the lexan.
>> Though acrylic is more fragile it will/should hold up better
> > than P/C as far as sunlight.
Ya but when you go to tighten a linse on a curve the plexiglas will
crack. Not so the lexan.
>> Most outdoor signage is made from Acrylic due
> > to better UV properties. There are some window materials that have thin
> > layers of other plastics to help with minimizing scratches.
I used Dow Corning 795 on (6) lexan 3/8" x 7" x 15" lenses. Through
bolted to house with (14) MS PH Philips 316 1/4" x 20 x 2 1/2" bedded
in 1/8" Dow Corning 795.
Do your research. Search this site and rec.boats. crusing for tons of
info.
Bob