Hi all,
I have a large supply of carbon fiber/Nomex honeycomb core aircraft
panels that will be turned into furniture aboard my catamaran.
I'm considering ways of finishing the external seams to minimize the
amount of fairing I will have to do. I'm going to be making up some
test pieces to break but this is what I've come up with as options for
making the right angle joints:
- all options filleted and taped with 1-2 layers 6 oz x 4" wide tape
on the inside of the seam (inside a locker or settee etc.)
- outside seam options:
1) round over, tape as above
2) glue on an L shaped wooden molding, about 1-1/4" x 1-1/4" length
3) 1) + 2) (cause the molding hides some of the tape)
4) my favourite so far: rebate one edge of inside layer of carbon and
core. Edge glue parts together so only small seam is visible. Like this:
panel 1
=========================
||||||||||||||||||||[ ] rebate in panel 1
====================[ ]
[ ]panel 2
[ ]
[ ]
[ ]
I am not willing to consider veneer over top of the panels because I
don't think I will be able to do a good job, the extra expense, and
mostly, the extra weight. A painted finish will be good enough for me.
Thanks for any hints,
Evan Gatehouse
Jim Conlin - 23 Mar 2006 17:33 GMT
I'd lean toward rounding off, as the tape is more likely to lie smooth than
it would over a sharp edge. Too, wobbles will be less visible in the
rounded corner.
I'd plow out the core an inch or so back from the outer corner and fill the
void with a strip of foam. Then do the rounding and taping.
Is there more of those panels available?
Jim
> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 33 lines]
>
> Evan Gatehouse
Denny - 24 Mar 2006 13:15 GMT
Along the same lines try putting a pine wood strip into the rebate for
forming the visible panel edge... It is stiff, strong, takes nails and
screws well for joining to the cabin sides, etc., and is easy to
paint... Or you can use cherry or mahogany, round the visible edge into
a bull nose, or other shape, and stain or varnish... GIves a bit of
extra cabinetry look at minimal effort and expense...
denny - whose fingers are brown this AM after bending and gluing sheer
bulworks on a dingy for the grandkids... Gorilla glue stains like heck
if you are not a 'neat' worker...
Richard Lamb - 25 Mar 2006 03:59 GMT
> Along the same lines try putting a pine wood strip into the rebate for
> forming the visible panel edge... It is stiff, strong, takes nails and
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> bulworks on a dingy for the grandkids... Gorilla glue stains like heck
> if you are not a 'neat' worker...
Shoot, Denny, that stuff will crawl across the bench to get on you hands!
Garland Gray II - 26 Mar 2006 14:37 GMT
Evan,
When I taped the seam on my panel, I laid a piece of sheet plastic (that
epoxy wouldn't stick to)over the tape, and then squeegeed the excess resin
out. Flattened it out real well, like vacuum bagging I suppose. Fairing was
still a pain, but this helped.
> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 33 lines]
>
> Evan Gatehouse