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Boat Forum / Building / April 2006Home made anchor
Hey all, I read a while back in a book about building docks a method for making an anchor: pour about 100 lbs. (or more?) of cement into a smallish tire. Sink a U-shaped piece of metal into it to attach the chain. Now, my question: is this an environmentally sound anchor? Doesn't cement leach out or something under water? And, wouldn't the tire decompose over time under water? (I'm talking about fresh water in upstate NY, by the way). I'd think making some other disk-shapped mold would be a better way to go, if one is using cement, just wondering what anyone else thought. Thanks, Julien >Hey all, > [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > >Julien Tires seem to last forever underwater. It's probably better for the eenviroment to use an old tire than to make something similar out of new materials. > Doesn't cement leach out or something under water? Leach out what? Limestone? So what? Mass alone does not make a good anchor. >>Doesn't cement leach out or something under water? > > Leach out what? Limestone? So what? If it doesn't matter then I'm OK with that. Thanks. > Mass alone does not make a good anchor. I know, are you talking about cement here? Not quite sure you are meaning. There are lots of things to consider in an anchor - and you haven't given us any idea of what it is you are trying to anchor, where, or under what conditions. But to look at just one consideration. If you made a 1000 kg anchor out of something with a density of say 2.0 ( mix of rubber and concrete.), it would take a force of 500 kg to lift it vertically up. If you made it out of something with a density of 5.0 ( mix of steel and concrete ) it would need a force of 800 kg to lift it vertically up. Obviously boats don't usually try to lift anchors vertically up, they roll, slide, dig into mud, get undermined by current ......... So the statement that mass alone does not make a good anchor is very much an understatement. DF >>>Doesn't cement leach out or something under water? >> [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > I know, are you talking about cement here? > Not quite sure you are meaning. Goo'day, >There are lots of things to consider in an anchor Doesn't the very use of the word "anchor" mean that the anchor itself needs to anchor itself to something? How are you going to anchor the anchor if it's but a block of something heavy? Would that a block of something *would* anchor. But of what value is a block of something sitting on, say, sand, in a 40kt wind? If, though, the block had flukes to anchor it in place, then there's a difference, and it might be of some use. Even fluked anchors have been known to drag in tide and wind - and that's what you're guarding against - dragging. The physical weight of the thing is far outweighed by the ability to withstand something trying to move it sideways, not vertically..... Your only option in an anchor is the degree of "fluking" required the locality/s you're going to want to anchor. You think I'm wrong? Toss a block of concrete the same weight as a fluked anchor over the side and see how far you drift/drag..... Home made? Waste of bloody time! And a danger to all concerned... especially to those striving to rescue you.. B. Some of y'all take this stuff (and perhaps yourselves) a little too seriously don't you? Ed  SignatureWhen replying via email, replace spam with speak in the address. > Goo'day, > [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > > B. He was reading a book about dock building. I would infer he wants to anchor a floating dock. Lets make 16 100 lb rubber tire anchors place four on each corner of a floating dock say 10' x 20'. Do you think it will anchor? > Some of y'all take this stuff (and perhaps yourselves) a little too > seriously don't you? [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] >> >> B. Thanks, everyone for the replies. > He was reading a book about dock building. I would infer he wants to anchor > a floating dock. Yes, someone read the op. Actually I am thinking about attaching the pipes of a pipe dock to the cement anchors. I have a hard rock bottom so I can't auger them in, or let them sink into mud. I could go the floating dock route, but at the moment I am leaning to a stationary dock. > Lets make 16 100 lb rubber tire anchors place four on each > corner of a floating dock say 10' x 20'. Do you think it will anchor? [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] >>> >>>B. Julien, In actual fact you are not talking about an 'anchor' but a *MOORING*. I belong to a Club which is one of the oldest on the Delaware River, just North of Philly. It is a 'self-help working mans' club rather then a 'Newport Yacht Club'. Strictly sail, and everybody pulls their weight. Since my Potter only weighs about 1200 lbs, I was thinking of doing something similar with an old car wheel - which would have simulated a 'mushroom' mooring anchor. ABSOLUTELY NOT allowed. {There were a couple that were 'grandfathered' . . . but they were RAILROAD wheels and 6ft pipes, weighing about 900 lbs.} Depending on the boat {and personal preference} a 'single' or 'double set' of mushroom {or one of the newer 'exotics'}anchors must be used. The 'set-up' per the guidelines in 'Chapman's'. We are on a river with a reversing tidal stream and a 7ft swing. About a third of the field is hauled & inspected each winter. ALL the buoys are pulled in late Fall . . . and the 'floating docks' as well. The docks use 'permanent' moorings that I understand are massive blocks of concrete. Where this differs from the 'boat moorings' is that there is no 'bottom chain' and riding chain' . . . it's all the same size. Also each 'float' is secured with 4 chains that are 'crossed' like spring lines to hold everything in place. It make for quite an adventure, twice a year !! Regards & Good Luck, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop > Thanks, everyone for the replies. > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > I could go the floating dock route, but at the moment I am leaning > to a stationary dock. > In actual fact you are not talking about an 'anchor' but a *MOORING*. Yes, you are correct. > I belong to a Club which is one of the oldest on the Delaware River, just > North of Philly. It is a 'self-help working mans' club rather then a [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > with 4 chains that are 'crossed' like spring lines to hold everything in > place. It make for quite an adventure, twice a year !! Thanks, this is quite interesting. Maybe I'll have to go ahead and get a real mushroom or two. Railroad wheels sound heavy, very heavy. Julien, If I remember your first inquiry, there was mention of a 'rocky bottom'. If so this is NOT the best holding ground for a mushroom type. Beside which, if this is going to be a 'permanent' mooring your going to need a LOT of mass. Plus someone with the proper equipment to place them. Many a dock is held in place using a couple of old engine blocks with a chain threaded through them. If you don't have a tidal stream, a big shift in tides, or frequent storm conditions, that's the way I'd explore. Two or three {for each 'corner'}with a heavy chain threaded through & shackled to keep them together. Also a hell of a lot cheaper then the mushrooms . . . and a lot less shipping if the scrap yard is local. Just remember the 'crossing arrangement' of the float chains. Regards & Good Luck, Rom Magen Backyard Boatshop SNIP > Thanks, this is quite interesting. Maybe I'll have to go ahead and get > a real mushroom or two. Railroad wheels sound heavy, very heavy. Old train wheels work fine, especially in fresh water. Might be bigger than you need. Also properly cleaned engine blocks. . > Old train wheels work fine, especially in fresh water. Might be bigger > than you need. Also properly cleaned engine blocks. . Old cast iron radiators are pretty heavy, I know someone who used one off of Fire Island a while back. Where would one look for an old train wheel? >> Old train wheels work fine, especially in fresh water. Might be bigger >> than you need. Also properly cleaned engine blocks. . > >Old cast iron radiators are pretty heavy, I know someone who used one >off of Fire Island a while back. >Where would one look for an old train wheel? An old train? Sorry, couldn't help myself. ____________________________________________________________ Glen "Wiley" Wilson <usenet1 SPAMNIX at world wide wiley dot com> To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious. Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/ >> Old train wheels work fine, especially in fresh water. Might be bigger >> than you need. Also properly cleaned engine blocks. . > >Old cast iron radiators are pretty heavy, I know someone who used one >off of Fire Island a while back. >Where would one look for an old train wheel? When I was a kid there was an abandoned tack with a switching station nearby. All the wheels you wanted. Then it was considered an eyesore. Now it would probably be a designated hysterical (oops, I meant historical) site and grabbing an old wheel would be frowned upon. ____________________________________________________________ Glen "Wiley" Wilson <usenet1 SPAMNIX at world wide wiley dot com> To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious. Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/ Do it at night, so you can't see the frowns? > >> Old train wheels work fine, especially in fresh water. Might be bigger > >> than you need. Also properly cleaned engine blocks. . [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and > logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/ |
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