I would seal it to get a final moisture barrier outside the microballoons.
I faired the bottom of Rutu before turning her over and figured I better
seal it up well not only for a moisture barrier but some protection during
the rest of construction. I rolled and tipped three coats of epoxy with
about 60% by weight copper. I could see my face in it.
I will be doing the same to the topsides (without the copper). Then sand to
about 240 before applying the high build primer and 2 part LPU. I tested
that substrate/primer/topcoat combination on my Gerr Nester and that poor
little boat has been sitting upside down by the pond in full sun for 3 years
now and looks as good as the day the paint cured.

Signature
Glenn Ashmore
I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com
> Thanks for the heads up
>
> Missing information:
> Stitch and glue plywood construction, epoxy and fiberglass overlays the
> wood ( no wood is exposed ), one part polyurethane finish, the area in
> question is the entire hull.
Martin Schöön - 28 May 2006 21:43 GMT
> I would seal it to get a final moisture barrier outside the microballoons.
When building my boat I painted (2-part LP) directly on the
fairing compound and as far I can see it works just fine.
My boat enters its 20th season right now.
http://hem.bredband.net/b262106/
--
Martin Schöön "Problems worthy of attack
show their worth by hitting back."
Piet Hein
dewers@race505.com - 29 May 2006 01:27 GMT
I would go to a good high build primer and then paint after that.
cavelamb - 29 May 2006 17:10 GMT
> I would go to a good high build primer and then paint after that.
Which is NOT epoxy resin.
Resin, by itself, is quite brittle, Will chip loose, Will crack,
and will NOT serve as a seal coat (for very long).
Sand the fairing material smooth.
Prime (per above) and paint.
Lew Hodgett - 29 May 2006 17:38 GMT
THe only way to seal the fairing compound of a male one off is to "tight
glaze" the compound with Rojo after the hull is fair, then shoot high
build primer followed by LP.
Lots of sanding in between.
Anything less and you are kidding yourself.
Lew
cavelamb - 31 May 2006 01:15 GMT
> THe only way to seal the fairing compound of a male one off is to "tight
> glaze" the compound with Rojo after the hull is fair, then shoot high
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Lew
Lew, that sounds like the voice of experience talking...
Richard
Brian D - 31 May 2006 03:56 GMT
Tried doing a web search but no lucky ...what is "Rojo"?
Thx,
Brian
>> THe only way to seal the fairing compound of a male one off is to "tight
>> glaze" the compound with Rojo after the hull is fair, then shoot high
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Richard
Lew Hodgett - 31 May 2006 06:30 GMT
> Tried doing a web search but no lucky ...what is "Rojo"?
ROJO, AKA: RED HAND.
A 2 part epoxy from the industrial division of International Paints.
Designed to fill pock marks in steel plate after sand blasting in ship
yards.
Definitely NOT a West marine item.
Lew
Andina Marie - 31 May 2006 16:56 GMT
There are many types of fairing compound. Some are porous and some are
not. The Bondo style are porous and need sealing. I would be quite
confident that an epoxy based fairing compound with microballoons is
not porous so the recommendation for a sealing coat does not apply to
this type.
Lew Hodgett - 31 May 2006 06:25 GMT
> Lew, that sounds like the voice of experience talking...
Yep.
Lew