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Boat Forum / Building / July 2006Optimal anti-slip paint?
Hi, having to re-paint the deck of my 33 years old 33' steel boat, I have a question to the DIY-and specially paint-gurus here. The old, well, it's been three years since I built it from ground up, paint is still good, but the anti-slip additive (by International) I stirred into it (one bag per pint-can) does not do what it is supposed to. It seems to be a plastic granulate that makes the paint somewhat dull, but still slippery, especially when it is wet. And it seems to polish off with every step you make on it. On my old boat, I stirred some fine quartz sand into the deck paint (a polyurethan product), and that lasted ages. It seems that one-component PU paints have vanished (at least here in Germany) from the shelves, the present base on the deck is an alkyd paint. Now, apart from adding sand, has anybody here any trick to offer on how to achieve a real anti-slip deck that earns its name? We rubbed off the whole deck with Scotchbrite clamped into an electric sander, using lots of water - works wonders. The surface is clean and dull now. I intend to use the same paint I used before (Sikkens Alkyd). But what to add to make it real safe? Any advice? The negative factor o using sand is the long-term care problem. Thanks in advance! Ulli (54,4N 10,2E) This isn't a direct answer to your question, as it's a paint rather than an additive, but, the all time, hands down best anti skid coating I have ever seen was applied to the Open 60, OceanPlanet. It is called Nautix-Grip. My memory is that it was imported from France (where Open 60s are a religion) by a company in Florida. If you absolutely, positively want to keep your footing and stay onboard, this would be the product. Jonathan > Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > > Ulli (54,4N 10,2E)  SignatureI am building my daughter an Argie 10 sailing dinghy, check it out: http://home.comcast.net/~jonsailr Hi You might look at ProtectaKote, which can be found here: www.esyte.co.uk but you might need someone from UK to carry it across for you. Go for the UVR version, which is longer lasting than the standard version. Vactan is also worth a look if you have any rust around. All the best with your project. Regards Paul > This isn't a direct answer to your question, as it's a paint rather than > an additive, but, the all time, hands down best anti skid coating I have [quoted text clipped - 41 lines] > I am building my daughter an Argie 10 sailing dinghy, check it out: > http://home.comcast.net/~jonsailr >Hi >You might look at ProtectaKote, which can be found here: >www.esyte.co.uk Paul, thanks for the hint. The stuff looks really good, except the narrow choice of colours (the waf plays an important role here too ...) I think I'll rather go the Nautix Grip way. But again, thanks for the message. >but you might need someone from UK to carry it across for you. Well, in the days of EC, this should not be that much of a problem. The next Ryan airfield is just 40 miles away... Regards, U. I have Protectacote on the gunnels, roof and foredeck of my narrow boat and after 5 years (foredeck) am impressed. It is still adhering well despite being painted onto a "not too good" surface. The foredeck and roof are a light grey, but it did suffer terribly from shedding pigment. Also, after a time, the paint wears off the granulated rubber giving the surface a dirty look. Both problems are cured by an occasional coat of some suitable satin or mat paint. I have used ordinary International floor paint (no anti-slip) and have just redone the roof with a "proprietary" inland mat external paint. The gunnels get a coat of ordinary gloss black each year when I paint the tumblehome on the hull. SignatureTony Brooks www.TB-Training.co.uk > Hi > You might look at ProtectaKote, which can be found here: [quoted text clipped - 51 lines] >> I am building my daughter an Argie 10 sailing dinghy, check it out: >> http://home.comcast.net/~jonsailr There used to be some stuff called "Wingwalk", or something like that, that was a paint-on coating for the walkways on airplane wings. I know the commercial craft in the Seattle area use (or used?) it a lot and liked it for their offshore use. My biggest beef with anti-skid treatments is repair ...if you have to repaint or anything, then any nonskid treatment that resembles sandpaper is going to be a paint to sand or remove so you can re-do the work. Walnut shells aren't too bad but they can be hard on the feet. Sand or silica additives are a pain to deal with if you have to sand it off later. How's the Nautix-Grip? Brian > This isn't a direct answer to your question, as it's a paint rather than > an additive, but, the all time, hands down best anti skid coating I have [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] >> >> Ulli (54,4N 10,2E) >additives are a pain to deal with if you have to sand it off later. How's >the Nautix-Grip? See the other replies :). Seems reasonable to give the shoe-soles a brush-over too... :) Thanks, U. >additives are a pain to deal with if you have to sand it off later. How's >the Nautix-Grip? Nautix Grip was recommended to me by a number of people, and according to our local supplier, it is the best antiskid stuff you can put your feet on. Unfortunately, the base on which I have to paint it is 1-component, while nautix grip is a two-pot-material, kicking itself out of my range. I'll use International's Interdeck now, since it is also a one-component base, like the layers underneath. Best regards and thanks to all contributors! U. > Best regards and thanks to all contributors! > U. Hi: What do the coasties use on their rescue boats? Bob >What do the coasties use on their rescue boats? Don't know. But the work on a rescue boat demands other properties than the 'other half' of the dual use our leisure boats exist for. They don't tear fragile sail cloth over their decks, and if they do, the sails havehad their time. (Nope, I don't tear my sails over the decks either, but sometimes you can't avoid it.) Then there are crew members who try to improve their looks by sunbathing - not the best idea to enjoy that on a layer of 60-grid(t?sp?) sandpaper. Treadmaster and others have been ruled out since I would not have access to the steel deck underneath. At least from above. Regards, U. >Nautix-Grip. My memory is that it was imported from France (where Open >60s are a religion) by a company in Florida. > >If you absolutely, positively want to keep your footing and stay >onboard, this would be the product. Sounds good. Others seem to recommend it too - and I found a source here in Germany not far from my home. Taken into the narrower choice. Thanks, more comments welcome. Cheers, U. > Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > > Ulli (54,4N 10,2E) Some Sail Board makers used to add sugar to the last coat. The sugar dissolves and leaves craters. Baz Sugar makes a great non-slip but the little craters are the devil to keep clean. SignatureGlenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com >> Hi, >> [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > dissolves and leaves craters. > Baz >Some Sail Board makers used to add sugar to the last coat. The sugar >dissolves and leaves craters. And the sugar in deeper layers acts hygroscopic, i.e., it attracts water. Not exactly what is intended. But thanks anyway. Regards, U. Not mixing. Sprinkling. > >Some Sail Board makers used to add sugar to the last coat. The sugar > >dissolves and leaves craters. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Regards, > U. > And the sugar in deeper layers acts hygroscopic, i.e., it attracts > water. Not exactly what is intended. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Regards, > U. The way you use sugar (or salt for that matter) is to sprinkle it on evenly with a flour sifter while the paint is still wet. Then after the paint is cured wash it off and the crystals dissolve out.leaving a nice uniform finely pitted surface. The only real problem is that the pits are the shape of the crystals, often straight sided which collects dirt and is hard to brush out completely. SignatureGlenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com >> And the sugar in deeper layers acts hygroscopic, i.e., it attracts >> water. Not exactly what is intended. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > >The way you use sugar (or salt for that matter) Depending on sailing in sweet or salt water? :))) ? SCNR. Thanks for the enlighting, anyway. People who have done that here complain of the dirt collecting in the little craters. My berth is just opposite the locks of the Kiel Canal, which means lots of smoke and other residues of the crude oil that the big ships push out. That combined with the odd rain shower lets the surface age pretty quickly, optically at least. But the method is nice. Regards, U. >Thanks for the enlighting, anyway. People who have done that here >complain of the dirt collecting in the little craters. My berth is [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > >But the method is nice. AFAICR a possible way to get round that is to paint a second coat of paint over the craters. Wouldn't take too long to try out a sample on some scrap board, to see how easy it is to hose/scrub clean. The first coat of paint could be done through a template or with masking so the edges are left clear and so easier to clean. cheers, Pete. > AFAICR a possible way to get round that is to paint a second coat of > paint over the craters. Doesn't that dull the edges of the craters, thus losing grip? The obvious answer is to choose the colour of the paint carefully to match that of the expected dirt. >> AFAICR a possible way to get round that is to paint a second coat of >> paint over the craters. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > The obvious answer is to choose the colour of the paint carefully > to match that of the expected dirt. Yes. This year I have chosen to piant my bottom with hairy green antifoul paint. I've had trouble however, exactly matching the seagull patina on the cabin roof - any suggestions? Floatything On Wed, 14 Jun 2006 22:18:51 GMT, "Floatything" >. I've had trouble however, exactly matching the seagull patina on the >cabin roof - any suggestions? > >Floatything Why bother, that stuff is waterproof, doesn't fade, non-slip (after the first few hours) and is very environmentally friendly being made of totally recycled products >>> AFAICR a possible way to get round that is to paint a second coat of >>> paint over the craters. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > paint. I've had trouble however, exactly matching the seagull patina on > the cabin roof - any suggestions? Get a cat (real), or an owl (fake). > This year I have chosen to paint my bottom with hairy green antifoul paint. There's really nothing more to say to that. Pete >> AFAICR a possible way to get round that is to paint a second coat of >> paint over the craters. > >Doesn't that dull the edges of the craters, thus losing grip? Maybe.... I'd have thought that the slippiness is down to aquaplaning more than anything. Just had a thought that maybe sprinkling small crumbs of foam (same colour) on the wet paint, then overpainting with a generous coat would give a nice rough surface. >The obvious answer is to choose the colour of the paint carefully >to match that of the expected dirt. True, doing the areas of anti-skid in black would help, though not in hot weather! cheers, Pete. I've heard of some folks using Epsom salts as well ...same effect. Glenn, or anybody, Know of any anti-skid treatment that a) works well, and b) does NOT turn into a dirt and grime collector? I need to decide what to do on my aft deck and the sheer decks (see http://www.glacierboats.com/tongass ). I'm not worried about cost if it's the right product... Thanks, Brian >> And the sugar in deeper layers acts hygroscopic, i.e., it attracts >> water. Not exactly what is intended. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > the shape of the crystals, often straight sided which collects dirt and is > hard to brush out completely. > I've heard of some folks using Epsom salts as well ...same effect. > [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] >>the shape of the crystals, often straight sided which collects dirt and is >>hard to brush out completely. Since the way a non-skid works is by providing a myriad of tiny edges, and those tiny edges collect and harbor dirt, it seems that to get effective non-skid, you have to live with dirt. It should be possible to balance these to some extent... I have seen a non-skid surface created out of spray-on pickup truck bed liner with rubber granules embedded. Personally, I think it makes a great deck surface for a work boat, but it is a little "coarse" as well as coarse for a pleasure boat. bob s/v Eolian Seattle >> I've heard of some folks using Epsom salts as well ...same effect. >> [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >> Thanks, >> Brian [snip] > Since the way a non-skid works is by providing a myriad of tiny edges, and > those tiny edges collect and harbor dirt, it seems that to get effective [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > s/v Eolian > Seattle Maybe, but I've heard of some rubber-like compounds that get grippier (is that a word?) when they are wet, especially if wearing rubber soled shoes. There must be some kind of coating that's relatively smooth while still being appropriately grippy. OR, at least be grippy but not hard to clean. Still thinking ...and looking. Brian Bumps are easier to keep clean than pits so sand or ground rubber additives are popular but the paint wears off the tops of the bumps faster. Somewhere around here I have some samples of a really professional system for applying non-skid patterns. It comes in heavy vinyl sheets in positive and negative versions in just about every pattern used on production boats. The positive is applied to plugs to form the pattern on the mold and the negative is used to apply a gel coat pattern to a finished deck. The result is really professional looking but takes a lot of work and isn't cheap. It is reusable though so with a little planning you can apply a fairly large area with one sheet. SignatureGlenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com > I've heard of some folks using Epsom salts as well ...same effect. > [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] >> are the shape of the crystals, often straight sided which collects dirt >> and is hard to brush out completely. And I would think that the anti-skid treatment of a deck inside the boat has lower requirements than the sheer deck (especially mine since I'll have no hand rails on the boat). Sand (or similar) in paint or epoxy works well, but my son's boat attests to the fact that it is wonderful for collecting dirt and growing 'things'. We wash it out in the Spring with Clorox solution and if it's still ugly, then we put another coat of Behr brand porch paint on it.... A coat of paint is good for 3 years max. Bought some stuff that's used for wing walks awhile back ...spendy, especially once you consider the hazardous material shipping charges that I got caught with. I think I'm going to test a few different methods on some spare epoxy-coated plywood and see what I like, which is easiest to clean, etcetera. No hurry. Brian > Bumps are easier to keep clean than pits so sand or ground rubber > additives are popular but the paint wears off the tops of the bumps [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] >>> are the shape of the crystals, often straight sided which collects dirt >>> and is hard to brush out completely. A slightly different approach: Mask the areas where non-skid is not desired. These areas will provide good drainage. Apply a light coat of paint and while still tacky, sift or sprinkle silicon carbide granules over the painted areas. When dry, remove the masking tape and paint over everything. Surprisingly, the paint doesn't wear off the granules very rapidly. > But what to add to make it real safe? Commercial additives are pumice. I would not use silica/quartz sand. It is a very hard mineral, and will damage whatever it sheds on to. Pumice is very soft and doesn't do that. |
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