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Boat Forum / Building / June 2006



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boat  newbie needs info on repairing 14 ft leaking alum boat

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ron@home.com - 18 Jun 2006 20:56 GMT
Hi:

    I've never had a boat before, but I just bought a 15-20 year old
14 foot aluminum boat, and 7 hp. motor.
    I just want to use it on the local fishing hole -a 40-50 acre
pond (I think.)
    The boat leaks at the front bottom where a couple pieces. of
aluminum come together and are riveted.
    What's the best way to permanently or semi-permanently fix  the
leaking area?  Is there some kind of sealer that I can use, or filler?
Should it be re-riveted,  or welded?
    The leak isn't real bad   -maybe a gallon of water every 15-20
minutes  (a wild guess).   Its not gushing up through, but I also
would not want to be out on the water far from shore for any length of
time.

    Any suggestions or recommendations would be very appreciated.

(I only paid $125 for the boat and motor.).  

     Thanks

      ron
     
Bob - 19 Jun 2006 20:45 GMT
> filler?
> Should it be re-riveted,  or welded?
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> (I only paid $125 for the boat and motor.).

I had an 18' Al Grumman. Paid $50 for it. A bunch of cowboys had it for
a few years. not a rib left intact.

Construction adheasive on the inside will work. Drink a case of cheep
canned beer. You'll have the "repair" material needed.

Bob
Brian D - 19 Jun 2006 22:13 GMT
Did the boat have salt exposure?  The problem with rivets is that they are
only electrically bonded to the hull when they fit tightly enough.  Once
they get loose, then they corrode and get more loose.  There's no good fix
for that other than as you say, re-riveting ...and on most boats, it's not
worth the expense.  I can't remember the name of it, but my brother found a
product that you could coat the outside of the boat with to seal up the
leaks.  It was a black paint-like product, flexible, and it worked well.
Note that the standard philosophy for stopping leaking liquids is that you
put the sealer on the same side as the liquid so that the liquid presses it
against the surface you wish to seal.  That's why boats with interior 'leak
fixes' and basements with 'miracle leak stop' products painted on the
interior always leak again someday ...period.  If your boat were mine, I'd
look for a coating that works like the one my brother found for his and I'd
consider painting the outside of the boat to hide the black coating.

Good luck,
Brian

>> filler?
>> Should it be re-riveted,  or welded?
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>
> Bob
Bob - 20 Jun 2006 08:48 GMT
> ...and on most boats, it's not
> worth the expense.  I can't remember the name of it, but my brother found a
> product that you could coat the outside of the boat with to seal up the
> leaks.
> Good luck,
> Brian

Gluv-it

Two part epoxy stuff painted on outside of boat. The aluminum drift
boat guys in the PNW like it. Marketed as a boat bottom "sealer"
but.............

ONce a year applicatins you may find that cheep boat is not so cheep
any moor. So whats so wrong with a little water in the bottom of your
boat? Seem t me soggy sneekers are a SOP.

Bottom Job Bob
Bob - 20 Jun 2006 08:48 GMT
> ...and on most boats, it's not
> worth the expense.  I can't remember the name of it, but my brother found a
> product that you could coat the outside of the boat with to seal up the
> leaks.
> Good luck,
> Brian

Gluv-it

Two part epoxy stuff painted on outside of boat. The aluminum drift
boat guys in the PNW like it. Marketed as a boat bottom "sealer"
but.............

ONce a year applicatins you may find that cheep boat is not so cheep
any moor. So whats so wrong with a little water in the bottom of your
boat? Seem t me soggy sneekers are a SOP.

Bottom Job Bob
Chalatso - 19 Jun 2006 22:37 GMT
My 14' aluminum jon boat has the bottom liberally coated with asphalt
sealer, or "black mammy" as my dad calls it.

Mind you, this is not a boat I show off, or brag on. It's the one I use
for running a trotline, or poking around in backwaters. The
1950's-vintage Johnson 3hp is plenty to push it along with the kids and
me on board.

For a $150 jon boat, I wouldn't worry about having it riveted or welded.
  A little tar should do the trick.

Chuck
David - 19 Jun 2006 23:54 GMT
Fill up the holes with plasty Bond stuff sticks to anything as long as it is
cleaned of scale, rust and paint.
Lushy
> My 14' aluminum jon boat has the bottom liberally coated with asphalt
> sealer, or "black mammy" as my dad calls it.
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Chuck
rta144@aol.com - 20 Jun 2006 00:54 GMT
I have an old sears aluminum boat that was just riddled with leaks.
Been out in a pasture for years.  Had it coated with Bed Liner.  It is
now tough as nails and doesn't leak.

Ron (also)
> Hi:
>
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
>
>        ron
Don Dando - 20 Jun 2006 04:48 GMT
Try a 3M product 5200.

Don Dando

> Hi:
>
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
>
>        ron
ron@home.com - 20 Jun 2006 14:16 GMT
(snipped original message)

Thanks everyone.  I appreciate all your ideas and responses.

I think I've now got several good options to  choose from.

     ron      
 
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