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Boat Forum / Building / February 2007



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Head sink to grey water tank pipe angle

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Steve Lusardi - 22 Feb 2007 05:44 GMT
Does anyone know what the mimimum slope of this drain can be that will not
cause clogging? I really do not want to use a second grey water tank in the
forward end which will cause loss of space and another through hull fitting.
It is preferable to use one large tank for the whole boat.
Steve
Evan Gatehouse2 - 22 Feb 2007 06:31 GMT
> Does anyone know what the mimimum slope of this drain can be that will not
> cause clogging? I really do not want to use a second grey water tank in the
> forward end which will cause loss of space and another through hull fitting.
> It is preferable to use one large tank for the whole boat.
> Steve

In land based applications it's 1/4" per 12" of run.

Boats are entirely different because they can have a permanent heel or
trim.  So I'd allow 1" per 12" on a small boat.

Evan Gatehouse
Steve Lusardi - 22 Feb 2007 22:55 GMT
Evan,
Thanks for the info. I also think 1/4" is too shallow, but I did not know
the recommended gradient. I will have to measure, but I think I can make 1"
per foot of run work.
Steve

>> Does anyone know what the mimimum slope of this drain can be that will
>> not cause clogging? I really do not want to use a second grey water tank
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> Evan Gatehouse
Peggie Hall - 22 Feb 2007 13:49 GMT
> Does anyone know what the mimimum slope of this drain can be that will not
> cause clogging? I really do not want to use a second grey water tank in the
> forward end which will cause loss of space and another through hull fitting.
> It is preferable to use one large tank for the whole boat.

Why are you installing a gray water tank? Gray water (galley, bath and
shower water) can go directly overboard in all coastal waters and,
except for only 2 or 3 places, on all inland waterways too.

If you're mistakenly referring to toilet waste (black water) as gray
water, holding tanks should be within about 6' of the toilet--'cuz
that's as far as bowl contents will move in the amount of time anyone
will spend flushing. So if you want to avoid leaving waste sitting the
line, a single large tank to serve two toilets at opposite ends of a
larger boat isn't a good solution.

If you're thinking of combining black water and gray water in the same
tank, CG regulations won't allow it. Gray water and black water plumbing
and tanks must be completely separate...can't even share a common vent.

Signature

Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books/detail-books.htm?fno=0&sku=90&cat=1304

Steve Lusardi - 22 Feb 2007 22:50 GMT
Peggie,
Thank you for your reply. No, I have no intention of combining black and
grey water. The application is a sailboat. Sailboats live on their ear. All
drains are effectively below the waterline. In that light, draining through
conventional water traps into a large grey water tank with one through hull
and a single pump and check valve allow facility useage under all points of
sail in all weather conditions. To me, this is highly desireable and is a
better solution than shutting all outboard drains in heavy weather. This
solution is not available to all designs. There must be adequate headroom
and bilge depth to facilitate it.
Steve

>> Does anyone know what the mimimum slope of this drain can be that will
>> not cause clogging? I really do not want to use a second grey water tank
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> tank, CG regulations won't allow it. Gray water and black water plumbing
> and tanks must be completely separate...can't even share a common vent.
Peggie Hall - 23 Feb 2007 00:26 GMT
Have you considered installing sumps instead of a tank? Gray water
tanks, because they contain food particles, cooking grease, soap scum
body oils and a whole bunch of other thing are MUCH harder to maintain
and keep odor-free than black water tanks. Sumps, otoh, can easily be
flushed and cleaned...they'd solve your problem and be so much easier to
maintain than a tank.

Otoh, maybe what you're thinking IS a sump...how large a gray water tank
are you envisioning?

Peggie

> Peggie,
> Thank you for your reply. No, I have no intention of combining black and
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>> tank, CG regulations won't allow it. Gray water and black water plumbing
>> and tanks must be completely separate...can't even share a common vent.

Signature

Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books/detail-books.htm?fno=0&sku=90&cat=1304

Steve Lusardi - 23 Feb 2007 21:25 GMT
Peggie,
Yes, your description is better than mine, it is a sump. The sump(tank) will
be about 10 to 15 gallons with a float switch for the pump.
Steve

> Have you considered installing sumps instead of a tank? Gray water tanks,
> because they contain food particles, cooking grease, soap scum body oils
[quoted text clipped - 39 lines]
>>> tank, CG regulations won't allow it. Gray water and black water plumbing
>>> and tanks must be completely separate...can't even share a common vent.
Peggie Hall - 23 Feb 2007 22:39 GMT
> The sump(tank) will
> be about 10 to 15 gallons with a float switch for the pump.

When you were describing it as "large gray water tank" I had visions of
something 30+ gallons. :) 10 is easily manageable...15 can be managed,
but not as easily. Since it'll be pumped overboard automatically, you
may even find that 5-6 is large enough unless you have a cast of
thousands aboard, all running water at the same time.

There's an easy way to keep both the tank and the float switch clean and
sweet smelling without ever having to manually clean either one: Raritan
C.P. is a bio-enzymatic cleaner that not only destroys odor on contact,
but the enzymes in it "eat" hair, soap scum, grease and all the other
stuff that turns a sump into a smelly primordial soup. Fill the sump at
least half full with clean water and put about 4 oz down a drain--or an
ounce or two down each one of the drains--when it can stand at least
overnight...then flush the sump out with plenty of clean fresh water.

It's the only job on boat that I know of that requires -0- manual labor.

Peggie

> Steve
>
[quoted text clipped - 41 lines]
>>>> tank, CG regulations won't allow it. Gray water and black water plumbing
>>>> and tanks must be completely separate...can't even share a common vent.

Signature

Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/books/detail-books.htm?fno=0&sku=90&cat=1304

Steve Lusardi - 24 Feb 2007 08:05 GMT
Thanks Peggie. Your expert help is very welcome.
Steve

>> The sump(tank) will be about 10 to 15 gallons with a float switch for the
>> pump.
[quoted text clipped - 65 lines]
>>>>> plumbing and tanks must be completely separate...can't even share a
>>>>> common vent.
Evan Gatehouse2 - 23 Feb 2007 04:55 GMT
> Peggie,
> Thank you for your reply. No, I have no intention of combining black and
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> and bilge depth to facilitate it.
> Steve

I don't know Steve, it does depend on the boat and the location of the
sink.  Our galley sink (well outboard under the side deck) on our 30'
monohull would fill slightly if the boat spent hours on one tack in
rough weather (heeling more than normal).  Never enough to get on the
counter though.

The head sink was closer to centerline and never saw a drop from
heeling.  Sinks closer to centerline are much better in this regard.

Oh if you do fit a sump tank, make sure you have a means to clean it
out often.  Our shower sump tank got really funky when we showered
regularly.

Evan Gatehouse
 
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