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Boat Forum / Building / July 2007plywood for a tiny boat in Sydney, Australia?
# This is a duplicate of a post I've just made to rec.woodworking, seeperately posted here in the hope that someone here might be able to help. thanks. # Hi folks, this is my first post to this esteemed group. I'm hoping that there's a few Australian participants besides myself who might be able to cast some light on this enquiry... I've recently stumbled across a couple of web sites with designs for tiny one-sheet or one-and-a-half-sheet boats, and I thought I might have a go at making one. There are a couple of gaps in my knowledge though: First, can someone suggest what I might expect to pay for an appropriate sheet of circa 2440mm x 1220mm plywood in Sydney Australia, along with suggestions as to a source. I looked yesterday at my local 'Bunnings' (not really expecting to find anything appropriate) and found that I could have any sort of ply I wanted, so long as I wanted 600mm x 1200mm sheets :-/ Locations from the city to the north-east are most accessible to me. (Some indicative pricings from other parts of the planet would be equally welcome) Second, is there some sort of finish that I might apply to a plywood boat that would provide the necessary waterproofing whilst at the same time being clear, so the grain of the wood remains visible? Third, what type of plywood should I be looking for? Am I correct in assuming that I must use 'marine ply' for this light-use application in a small one-person boat, or are there alternatives that I should consider? Price is more of a consideration than durability, since my interest is more in the building than the using! Thanks in advance, GB  Signature"Most police misconduct occurs when citizens challenge an individual officer's authority" (Reiss, 1971 c.in Jermier & Berkes 1979) ># This is a duplicate of a post I've just made to rec.woodworking, >seeperately posted here in the hope that someone here might be [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > >GB I can't give you much advise about plywood size other then to say that a 4" X 8" sheet is standard (1220 X 2440mm) and you should have no problems locating plywood of that size. You want to use either "marine grade" or "exterior grade" plywood. They both use waterproof glue and the main difference is the allowable voids in the cores. If you can find a yard that will let you pick through a stack of exterior grade and select the one that doesn't show any voids in the core then it will work perfectly well. If you just have to take the sheet they give you then I would probably take the marine grade, although it will be more expensive. I'm not sure how you plan on building this boat but for a small dinghy I'd use the "stitch and glue" method where you cut the various panels to size and tie them together with wire, cable ties, strong string, whatever, and then smear glue in the joints. Once the glue has hardened you then fair the joints, using epoxy filler, to a nice smooth radius and lastly tape over the joints with 4 inch fiberglass tape. While initially this sounds like a lot of messing about it ends up being easier then setting up a mold, cutting frames and building a boat the traditional way. The stitch and glue boat will also be lighter. You can use anything to build a boat. BUT is it isn't waterproof it won;t last long. If you build it out of proper materials you can always sell it and get a little money back but something that is splintering and de laminating will be a little hard to get rid of. If you are interested in a really good small dinghy do a web search for a "D4" dinghy. The plans are free and the guy's web site has a wealth of information on building boats. Bruce in Bangkok (brucepaigeatgmaildotcom) SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > I'm not sure how you plan on building this boat but for a small dinghy > I'd use the "stitch and glue" method where you cut the various panels > to size and tie them together with wire, cable ties, strong string, > whatever, and then smear glue in the joints. I'd looked at similar approaches used on various web pages and was concerned that the method didn't look nearly strong enough. The design I had in mind was flat bottomed, (see the url below) and I had planned on perhaps going beyond the reccomended jointing methods screwing the bottom and sides to a piece of wood of about 1in x 1in for the length of each join. Is that overkill? [...] > If you are interested in a really good small dinghy do a web search > for a "D4" dinghy. The plans are free and the guy's web site has a > wealth of information on building boats. That D4 does look like a very nice little boat. A bit more advanced than what I had in mind though. Something like this: <http://personal.eunet.fi/pp/gsahv/dinghy1/simboii.htm> is where I'd planned to start. If that works out OK, then this D4 design looks like a good next step! Thank-you, GB Signature"Most police misconduct occurs when citizens challenge an individual officer's authority" (Reiss, 1971 c.in Jermier & Berkes 1979) "GB" <gb0506@kickindanuts.threefiddy.com> wrote in message concerned that the method didn't look nearly strong enough. > The design I had in mind was flat bottomed, (see the url below) > and I had planned on perhaps going beyond the reccomended jointing > methods screwing the bottom and sides to a piece of wood of > about 1in x 1in for the length of each join. Is that overkill? > > <http://personal.eunet.fi/pp/gsahv/dinghy1/simboii.htm> Hi To answer a couple of your queries The fibreglass taped join is far superior to a glued stringer- Not overkill as it's not as strong. Much easier to tape the chine. To clear finish the best method is epoxy coating and then a clear UV filtering varnish or polyurethane. Having said that, if you are not going to store it in the sun for long periods or keep it in wet conditions, eg if in a garage, then any cheap varnish equivalent will do. Peter HK >> I'm not sure how you plan on building this boat but for a small dinghy >> I'd use the "stitch and glue" method where you cut the various panels [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > >GB Actually a properly made "stitch and glue" joint is probably stronger then using a batten to screw to. Remember that there is a epoxy filler fillet, usually about a half by half inch at each place the plywood joins, which is then covered with a 4 inch fiberglass tape. I tape my joints both inside and outside, which may be over kill, and while I have never actually tested one to destruction I am willing to bet that the joint is stronger then the parent plywood. Of course it is your boat and you should build it the way you think best but do take into consideration that literally thousands of stitch and glue boats and if the method wasn't effective certainly there would be comments all over the net. Bruce in Bangkok (brucepaigeatgmaildotcom) SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > Of course it is your boat and you should build it the way you think > best but do take into consideration that literally thousands of stitch > and glue boats and if the method wasn't effective certainly there > would be comments all over the net. I agree. I'm not questioning the method so much as questioning my own knowledge of what works and what doesn't. I grew up in an environment where tradesmen were never called, we figured out and fixed /everything/ ourselves, be it plumbing, home extensions, electricals and electronics. I've kinda developed a bit of a feel for materials, and what works and what doesn't. You know, certain types of glue will fix certain materials, and will be completely ineffective on others, etc, etc. I have a bit of difficulty with the concept of a near-solid (as in almost brittle) epoxy contributing any sort of strength to a butted joint between two bits of ply. I'm not saying it won't work, just that it conflicts with my own experiential knowledge of how things 'work'. On PVA type glues, I'm very much aware (and continually amazed) by just how strong a join that stuff makes between two pieces of timber, but again, I have conceptual problems with using it on a join that's designed to be dunked in a pond! My own exposure to fibreglass is limited to canoe-building class in high school. Those were well before OHS days, so we were all so high on the fumes that there wasn't much consciousness left to develop a feeling for just how strong a fibre-tape/epoxy join might be!!! Hence all the questions! I'm sailing (pardon the pun) in uncharted waters! Thanks, I appreciate your comments. GB Signature"Most police misconduct occurs when citizens challenge an individual officer's authority" (Reiss, 1971 c.in Jermier & Berkes 1979) >> Of course it is your boat and you should build it the way you think >> best but do take into consideration that literally thousands of stitch [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] > >GB Try the epoxy before you ignore it. Make a 90 degree butt joint with 1/4 inch plywood and glue it with epoxy. Mix up some epoxy and some sort of filler, sanding dust from the same kind of wood you are glueing works fine, and form a fillet approximately 1/2 inch wide on the inside of the 90 degree joint, Then wet out a 4 inch wide piece of glass tape with epoxy and place that over the fillet. Roll out any bubbles and let it harden for 48 hours and then try to break it. Twist it, pry it, whatever you want, and you'll find that the plywood fails long before you can break the joint itself. Bruce in Bangkok (brucepaigeatgmaildotcom) SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > completely ineffective on others, etc, etc. I have a bit of > difficulty with the concept of a near-solid (as in almost brittle) > epoxy contributing any sort of strength to a butted joint between > two bits of ply. I'm not saying it won't work, just that it > conflicts with my own experiential knowledge of how things 'work'. Well, take a look at this dinghy: www.customware.nl/boats It is entirely glued together. Not a singe screw and even the skeg (20mm) wide is simply glued to the keel. I once did a test: everone keeps telling me that oak doesn't glue well with epoxy so this was a good starting point for my experiment. I sanded the oak with grit 40 across the grain, applied some epoxy and let it cure without clamping. Next day I drove a 3/16" nail straight through the seam, trying to break the epoxy. It didn't. the wood around the nail gave up eventually. > My own exposure to fibreglass is limited to canoe-building class > in high school. Those were well before OHS days, so we were all > so high on the fumes that there wasn't much consciousness left > to develop a feeling for just how strong a fibre-tape/epoxy > join might be!!! Epoxy does not produce fumes. You're mixing it up with polyester. Meindert >> I'm not sure how you plan on building this boat but for a small >> dinghy I'd use the "stitch and glue" method where you cut the [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > methods screwing the bottom and sides to a piece of wood of > about 1in x 1in for the length of each join. Is that overkill? It is both overkill and a nuisance. A nuisance because it creates more surfaces to sand and finish but primarily because those surfaces also catch and hold water (and dirt) and water encourages rot. ____________________ >> If you are interested in a really good small dinghy do a web search >> for a "D4" dinghy. The plans are free and the guy's web site has a >> wealth of information on building boats. > > That D4 does look like a very nice little boat. A bit more advanced > than what I had in mind though. Something like this: It doesn't take that much more work and would be very little more difficult if you made it for rowing only. The author of the one you linked made a good point about a single lengthwise seat; it would need more than one position for oarlocks. Regardless of which you make, if you use "glue and stitch" practice making the thickened epoxy fillets so that you can make them neatly and uniformly - you'll save a ton of sanding. IMO, the easiest tool to apply them is a sphere...possibly a rubber ball. Foam cylinders work well too...I bought one of the foam pool toys...a cylinder about 2 1/2" in diameter and maybe four feet long. Cut off a piece about 2" wide, apply/fair epoxy putty, throw away. Also, do the gunnels well...they really stiffen everything up. SignaturedadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico >>> I'm not sure how you plan on building this boat but for a small >>> dinghy I'd use the "stitch and glue" method where you cut the [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > >Also, do the gunnels well...they really stiffen everything up. A trick I learned from a guy who does it every day is to grind a radius on one corner of a putty-knife. He had several in different sizes and radius. With the metal blade he could pretty well scrape all the excess filler off the panels leaving only the fillet and then, before the filler had hardened he taped over the fillet and rolled it out. It takes a bit of practice but cuts out all the sanding of the fillets. Bruce in Bangkok (brucepaigeatgmaildotcom) SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > A trick I learned from a guy who does it every day is to grind a > radius on one corner of a putty-knife. He had several in different [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Bruce in Bangkok > (brucepaigeatgmaildotcom) Bruce, you've been most helpful, so I'll add a tip of my own. I've learned to mask off the area to be taped. Make the area a touch larger than the width of the glass tape to be used. You don't want the glass laying over teh mask! Duct tape works fine as epoxy will not stick to it. Then lay in the filet and glass tape and epoxy. This makes for very neat seams with little clean up required. Well, it works for me, anyway! Richard http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb/index.htm >> A trick I learned from a guy who does it every day is to grind a >> radius on one corner of a putty-knife. He had several in different [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] >Richard > http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb/index.htm Most guys in the business do exactly the same thing anytime they are using something that can make a mess. If you are putting in ports with sikaflex, for example, Mask around the area the sika will contact, maybe leave a very tiny gap. Then after you set the port and the seka just starts to harden you strip off the tape and you are left with almost no clean-up at all. Great stuff, masking tape. Bruce in Bangkok (brucepaigeatgmaildotcom) SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com >>>A trick I learned from a guy who does it every day is to grind a >>>radius on one corner of a putty-knife. He had several in different [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > Bruce in Bangkok > (brucepaigeatgmaildotcom) Yep, but I'll stick with Duct Tape - so I'm not stuck with stuck tape! g Richard > On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 18:34:12 GMT, cavelamb himself > [quoted text clipped - 43 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Forgive this if it is a repost, I have had some posting problems lately so I am trying again. For spreading and shaping resin, find some old leather. I have an old piece of striking leather from the cotton mill down Huntsville Ala, during my travelin' days;) Anyway, the stuff is about 1/4 inch thick and smooth on one side, very stiff. I cut squares and two or three different radius on the corners, one at a nice 90. I use them to spread, and smooth glass and resin. Another way to make taping seams easier is to put 80% of the resin for a seam down before the cloth. Lay down your wet cloth, and use the rest of the pot to lay on top. It is much easier to push cloth into wet resin than to push resin into dry (white) cloth. In most cases, putting wet cloth, onto wet surface will make your life much easier;) For tighter work or where you need to pass through limbers and such, or where I want no or little run off, I have a piece of formica counter top I use to pre-soak the cloth, squeegee it to taste, fold it up, and lay it out wet on wet. Formica cleans up easy with a rag and thinner. If you don't have a chunk of formica you can also lay out and tape or staple down wax paper. On 15 Jul 2007 11:30:00 +1000, GB <gb0506@kickindanuts.threefiddy.com> wrote stuff and I replied: Try the online Yellow Pages. I found 77 comanies making or selling plywood, including marine. I entered "marine plywood" oin the business type slot, and Sydney in the location slot Then when asked said "Greater Sydney" then chose "Plywoods and veneers" Some of these guys are makers, but there was, for instance Mister Ply & Wood, who has several stores around the sydney area ># This is a duplicate of a post I've just made to rec.woodworking, >seeperately posted here in the hope that someone here might be [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > >GB Human bevaviour: Bestiality with a brain > Try the online Yellow Pages. I found 77 comanies making or selling > plywood, including marine. Thanks OldNick... Strangely, the Yellow Pages online worked for once in their life! (I ususally don't bother, 'cos I've never had a good run with YP online)... > Some of these guys are makers, but there was, for instance Mister Ply > & Wood, who has several stores around the sydney area Yup, turns out they have a web site with pricing and location info. That's exactly what I needed, thank-you. GB Signature"Most police misconduct occurs when citizens challenge an individual officer's authority" (Reiss, 1971 c.in Jermier & Berkes 1979) On 15 Jul 2007 14:10:09 +1000, GB <gb0506@kickindanuts.threefiddy.com> wrote stuff and I replied: Glad you were lucky this time <G> That Mister Ply & Wood place seem pretty on the ball and keen to inform. >> Try the online Yellow Pages. I found 77 comanies making or selling >> plywood, including marine. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > >GB Human bevaviour: Bestiality with a brain On 15 Jul 2007 11:30:00 +1000, GB <gb0506@kickindanuts.threefiddy.com> wrote stuff and I replied: Also, you will find that marine ply is not _that_ much more than exterior, adn can be cheaper than "structural" ># This is a duplicate of a post I've just made to rec.woodworking, >seeperately posted here in the hope that someone here might be [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > >GB Human bevaviour: Bestiality with a brain > # This is a duplicate of a post I've just made to rec.woodworking, > seeperately posted here in the hope that someone here might be > able to help. thanks. # > I've recently stumbled across a couple of web sites with designs > for tiny one-sheet or one-and-a-half-sheet boats, and I thought > I might have a go at making one. There are a couple of gaps in > my knowledge though: > Third, what type of plywood should I be looking for? Am I > correct in assuming that I must use 'marine ply' for this > light-use application in a small one-person boat, or are > there alternatives that I should consider? Price is more > of a consideration than durability, since my interest is > more in the building than the using! The Wooden Boat Association Newsletter (NSW) might have adverts of interest. http://www.woodenboat.org.au/ Have a look around your local Marinas. There are umpteen boat builders and/or boat timber suppliers within a few hundred metres of where my boat is moored. Shane http://members.dodo.com.au/~spdeering/ SignatureZoidberg: "Hooray, I'm useful. I'm having a wonderful time." Get "exterior grade" plywood available from Mr Plywood. It is basically the same spec as marine ply without the high quality veneered face, therefore cheeper. For ecconomical clear finish apply 4-5 coats marine gloss varnish, thin the first coat 50% with turps. Craig ># This is a duplicate of a post I've just made to rec.woodworking, > seeperately posted here in the hope that someone here might be [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > > GB > Third, what type of plywood should I be looking for? Am I > correct in assuming that I must use 'marine ply' for this [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > "Most police misconduct occurs when citizens challenge an individual > officer's authority" (Reiss, 1971 c.in Jermier & Berkes 1979) For my input I will suggest it is better to spend the extra dollars on good marine plywood (preferably BS 1088). I have had instances when bending standard ply, especially for smaller boats with tight curves, it cracks or splits. If you crack a side putting it on, you will end up spending as much as marine anyway;) Not to mention, better ply will bend fair, making it easy to keep nice lines on the boat, which also leaves you with a lot less fairing and sanding too. Of course, it will stand up a lot longer than standard ply, years longer with similar care, and will in the end, generally be much lighter. Using BS 1088 Occoume can save you 25% on the weight of the hull, even compared to standard marine ply. A standard sheet of 1220x2440 with a thickness of 6mm (appx. 1/4" for us yanks) is about 10kilo or 22lbs... for the yanks. I actually just gave up on using standard plywood years ago, in the long run, it's just not worth it. On Sun, 15 Jul 2007 23:52:06 -0000, justwaitafrekinminute@gmail.com wrote stuff and I replied: You have my concurring vote on that as well. The cost difference is quite small. >For my input I will suggest it is better to spend the extra dollars on >good marine plywood (preferably BS 1088). I have had instances when [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >I actually just gave up on using standard plywood years ago, in the >long run, it's just not worth it. Human bevaviour: Bestiality with a brain justwaitafrekinminute@gmail.com wrote in news:1184543526.288358.141050@ 22g2000hsm.googlegroups.com: > For my input I will suggest it is better to spend the extra dollars on > good marine plywood (preferably BS 1088). OldNick <nsremovable@iinet.net.au> wrote in news:ikdl939u5p44s45a3mqcftr8bb8imuni17@4ax.com: > You have my concurring vote on that as well. The cost difference is > quite small. I'm going to take this advice on my /second/ boat thanks guys. Having looked a bit closer, the CD grade structural plys are a lot cheaper than the good marine stuff, so I'll learn my lessons on a cheap bit of timber, and take it from there :-) GB Signature"Most police misconduct occurs when citizens challenge an individual officer's authority" (Reiss, 1971 c.in Jermier & Berkes 1979) > I'm going to take this advice on my /second/ boat thanks guys. > Having looked a bit closer, the CD grade structural plys are > a lot cheaper than the good marine stuff, so I'll learn my > lessons on a cheap bit of timber, and take it from there :-) You do *NOT* want CD. A decent (AB or BB) exterior would be usable but not CD. Even with the better face plies you'd need to look for sheets without obvious interior voids. Considering the cost of epoxy, I wouldn't skimp on the cost of the ply it is to cover. Not to mention time. SignaturedadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico >> I'm going to take this advice on my /second/ boat thanks guys. >> Having looked a bit closer, the CD grade structural plys are [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > I wouldn't skimp on the cost of the ply it is to cover. Not to > mention time. Dain. > justwaitafrekinmin...@gmail.com wrote in news:1184543526.288358.141050@ > 22g2000hsm.googlegroups.com: [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > "Most police misconduct occurs when citizens challenge an individual > officer's authority" (Reiss, 1971 c.in Jermier & Berkes 1979) I may have missed it, did you pick a plan yet or are you just gonna' wing it? justwaitafrekinminute@gmail.com wrote in news:1184597731.700240.157810 @g4g2000hsf.googlegroups.com: > I may have missed it, did you pick a plan yet or are you just gonna' > wing it? Something like this is what I have in mind: <http://personal.eunet.fi/pp/gsahv/dinghy1/simboii.htm> and a 'D4' dinghy for round 2... G -- .sig > Second, is there some sort of finish that I might apply to a > plywood boat that would provide the necessary waterproofing > whilst at the same time being clear, so the grain of the > wood remains visible? Epoxy. Which must in turn be covered with an UV inhibiting finish because UV breaks down epoxy rather rapidly. SignaturedadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico >>Second, is there some sort of finish that I might apply to a >>plywood boat that would provide the necessary waterproofing [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Epoxy. Which must in turn be covered with an UV inhibiting finish > because UV breaks down epoxy rather rapidly. So what constitutes a UV inhibiting finish that can be used over epoxy? >>> Second, is there some sort of finish that I might apply to a >>> plywood boat that would provide the necessary waterproofing [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > So what constitutes a UV inhibiting finish that can be used over > epoxy? 1. Paint 2. Varnish that says it has an UV inhibitor. In both cases, the amine blush has to be washed off the epoxy beforehand. SignaturedadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico Nice to see a kindred spirit in the newsgroup. Look for Herb McLoed's one sheet skiff, Gavin Atkin's Mouse, and Prizm by a guy in Finalnd, all one sheeters. Also look in www.ncf.ca/~ag384/Boats.htm for the small boats I've designed and built for myself. The plywood of choice if underlayment. It's nailed to floors to go under vinyl and other flooring, hence it's name. There are three kinds. Luan and meranti are essentially the same, some king of Asian cedar. The meranti I've seen has better surfaces and frwer voids than the lauan. They weigh about one pound per sq ft, the same as okume marine plywood. Virola, the other kind is from Brazil, weighs half as much as lauan and meranti, bends a lot easier, but resists water like tissue paper. I've build two boats out of it and have to keep sealing surface splits and gluing pieces of surface ply back on. All three are very cheap. Look along each edge and pick sheets with no gaps "voids" in the edge. If voids are unavoidable they can be filled by drilling holes and forcing in caulk or glue with a caulking gun. These boats last longer if stored inside, for example in a garage or carport. I use screw and glue construction with chine battens cut from cedar 2x4's and then cut in half to make 3/4"x3/4" battens. The glue is LePages' Bull Dog brand PL Premium polyurehtan construction adhesive in the caluking tube. Very cheap. The outside seams are rounded with a sander and sealed with a dab of polyester resin spread with a toothpick. The finish is semi-gloos latex acrylic house paint below the water and linseed oil everywhere else. The way to reinforce the thin plywood bottom is with a keal or skids on the outside and if nececessary bits of plywood glued to the bottom on the inside. I don't know why Google groups doen't have a spell checker... :( > Nice to see a kindred spirit in the newsgroup. > The plywood of choice if underlayment. It's nailed to floors to go > under vinyl and other flooring, hence it's name. There are three > kinds. Luan and meranti are essentially the same, some king of Asian > cedar. The meranti I've seen has better surfaces and frwer voids than > the lauan. > > I don't know why Google groups doen't have a spell checker... :( Well, if you are going to use Luan or Meranti (I have used both too) feel it before you buy. If you "pet" the panel all over with a flat hand, many times you can "hear" differences in density in this type of thin, usually pretty dry, plywood. Also look for a sticker on the sheets that say "TYPE III". It will at least be made with water resistant adhesive. If you are going to use other than marine, this stuff, in my opinion, and as available in my area, is much better than pine or fur for boats. I actually have a couple of sheets put away for a special project that came with a wild grain and was probably some other "filler" wood that was used in manufacture. Maybe an end sheet or something, but it is beautiful. I may make a small kayak or skiff out of it, the kayak would show off the grain better. > Nice to see a kindred spirit in the newsgroup. I should add a reference to a more complex one sheeter recently described at www.duckworksmagazine.com . Scroll down to the two articles on "Baby Canoe". I think there's enough detail for construction. It's more like building a bigger boat than any one sheeter I've seen so far. Also, it's a good idea to make a cardboard model or two before beginning to build a small boat full size. |
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