Boat Forum / Building / December 2007

I'm not sure about the curve but making it a laminate will allow you
to vary the grain pattern so that if and when it begins to warp it
will pull against itself and stay relatively straighter.  You would
want to keep the grain going long ways but because it is still in a
circular pattern you flip one board over as compared to the previous.
I am sorry about the bad description on this.  Someone else may have a
better one or even some wort of diagram to show you.

Depending on the cockpit's configuration a curve tiller is preferred.
Laminated teller with two part epoxy is better for strength and allow for
pattern variation like one or two layers of white hard wood with one layer
of dark wood.  On my previous boat I made a spare tiller with one piece
solid ash and had no problem.
When you make a tiller you have to make sure that the holes are drilled
perpendicular and in line with the metal holding part mounted on the rudder.
When push comes to shove one of two  fibreglass laminated hockey stick will
get you out of trouble.  This is more true on smaller sailboat.   The Potter
15 is a nicely configured boat.  If you have the time and facility I would
go for laminated ash and holly wood ( or their equivalent) tiller with two
parts epoxy.  You can use the old tiller as a template.

Wood has grain. Cutting a curved shape out of an oak timber will make a
comparitively weak structure. Laminating not only makes all the grain going the
right direction, but laminating itself increases strength and resistance to
warping and twisting. The "S" shape is mostly for comfort. In some cases it also
creates needed clearance. You can buy premade tillers for many boat models, and
usually there is one that is pretty close, even if there isn't an exact
replacement. You can usually find at least a small collection at any West marine
store. Bring yours along and try to match it up. get the model number and then
find it elswhere on the internet for a LOT less money.

My boat has a very unusual, all wood wishbone shape. After contacting two firms
that advertise they can duplicate ANY tiller, I was left with the task of doing
it myself. They didn't want to do it because their tooling and jigs were not
designed for this particular setup.  It's unusual enough that I consider it an
important and distinctive design element of the boat that needs to be
maintained. I bought a VERY nice piece of teak 5/4 lumber and sawed it into the
needed 5/16" strips on my table saw. Glued it up on a jig I made by mounting
dowels and blocks of wood on a wide board. Used West System Epoxy filled with
brown fiber filler and SLOW hardner. Used about 35 clamps. The final result was
a lot nicer than the original which was similar but not made with such beautiful
wood, or care. For the shallow bends of a tiller, steam is not needed or even
desirable.

Yes, but it will look like ugly on an ape, and may not provide needed
clearances.

Yes.

Strength, appearance and resistance to warping.

Save that piece of white oak.

Get some Hondourous Mahogany and some Ash, and some epoxy.

Rip 1/4" thick strips.

Build a laminating jig.

Have fun.

Lew

Not a good choice.
______________

A curve brings the end where your hand goes higher relative to the
rudder stock.  Or lower, depending.
______________

Yes
_______________

Compelling, no.
_________________

one;

It will work fine.  It will be rather heavy though.  Mine is oak, made
of several pieces.  The short & solid hand end is attached to two thin
pieces that are separated at intervals by three tapered blocks between
them.  Making it in that manner decreased weight and saved a lot of
the shaping that would have been needed had I used a solid piece.
________________

(I have a bandsaw, so duplicating the curve would

It would.

Toller,

Over the past 35 years, I have had to reglue my tiller twice.  I have since
given it
several coats of varnish and keep a cover on it when not sailing.  I believe the

reason for the 'S' shape is to keep the tiller out of the way of your legs when
you are
standing close to the rudder post.  Solid wood will warp in marine environment,
as
I discovered recently when I replaced my laminated benches with solid wood.

                                    Sherwin D.

<http://pyacht.iserver.net/cgi-local/SoftCart.exe/online-store/scstore/h-h_and_l_
tillers.htm?E+scstore+6666>

I guess the reason most tillers are shapely is to keep the tiller from
looking like an ugly stick.  Ash is often used for tillers more than oak.

West Wight sells a replacement tiller for $55. That seems extremely
reasonable.

http://www.westwightpotter.com/content/MiniShopProduct.phtml?0/0/199

They have lots of other parts as well.

With respect to the other posters, and I have not read all the posts.
I can relate my experience. I laminated 5 pieces of 6mm Occoume with 4
0z. tight weave fiberglass and Epoxy in between layers. I am sure it
is still strong as hell, but it did have more flex than I would have
liked. The guy I made it for was thrilled though. Carry on, sorry if
this has already been noted.

If you really need the curves, perhaps you could steam bend the piece
of oak.

Casady