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Boat Forum / Building / January 2008repairing gelcoat on an older canoe..
Hi, I have just been given an older mohawk 16' canoe. It's in great shape apart from some scratches and several large patches where the gel coat has come off and the fiberglass has been exposed. Its chopped mat layup so i think that means its polyester? Anyway - whats an economical way of repairing the exposed mat sections? Should I just get some epoxy and paint it on and sand it flat and repeat until its all flat and in line with the remaining original gel coat? What about painting it? do i need special paint, surface prep? and how expensive is it to piant? since its an older boat it's not worth putting that much money into it.. Sal > Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Sal A canoe is not always in the water. Refurbishing it depends on how much you will use it and store it. The structural integrity of 20 to 40 years old Fiberglas canoe needs to be checked carefully before you spend money on it. Its condition is subject to how it was stored and supported when it was not in use. A properly stored canoe is done indoor and supported by a minimum of 3 points 4 is better. To fix your canoe you should not spent more than 20% to 25% of the cost of a new one. Ideally you should be using two parts epoxy. If you happen to have some left over from a previous job use it. Or you may be able to get away by using ployester resin and flair it with Premium marine filler. The entire canoe should be sanded using open coat paper starting with a grit of 120 and finishing it with 220 grit. As for the painting a polyurethane paint equivalent to Interlux Brightside or a more expensive two part epoxy paint with the proper primer. I have used polyurethane concrete floor paint with good result. The cost of the paint: for concrete floor paint its about $15.00 for a litter and for Interlux its $35.00. Two parts epoxy paint will run up to $65.00 per litter or more. Good Norton sand paper costs about $0.50 per 8"X11" sheet. You may get away with only using polyester resin >> Hi, >> [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] >> >> Sal "prime" the repair spots with solvent thinned epoxy. That "patch/fair" those spots with either an exterior putty or thickened epoxy. Now prime the entire hull with more solvent thinned epoxy. Especially over those patch spots if you used putty. Then paint with a quart of enamel from the hardware store. paul oman progressive epoxy polymers > "prime" the repair spots with solvent thinned epoxy. That > "patch/fair" those spots with either an exterior putty or [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > paul oman > progressive epoxy polymers Thank you to both of you who replied. Appreciated. I have it sanded down now to 220 grit all over. Another couple of questions thou' - haven't done this before... What solvent should be used with Epoxy and in what quantity? After priming the entire hull should I sand it again prior to painting? When you say a quart of enamel what exactly is that? In the store there's latex based, acrylic based or oil based? If I don't mind the multi color patches could I leave the epoxy primer over the entire hull as the 'paint'? thanks again >> "prime" the repair spots with solvent thinned epoxy. That >> "patch/fair" those spots with either an exterior putty or [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > >thanks again Epoxy needs to be protected from UV or it will deteriorate. Paint it over with a solid enamel as suggested. >> "prime" the repair spots with solvent thinned epoxy. That >> "patch/fair" those spots with either an exterior putty or [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > What solvent should be used with Epoxy and in what quantity? THIN THE EPOXY 20-50% OR SO BY VOLUME WITH ACETONE OR XYLENE ETC. YOU MIGHT EVEN PIGMENT THE THINNED EPOXY - EASIER TO SEE WHAT YOU ARE DOING AND LESS TOPCOATS TO COVER. > After priming the entire hull should I sand it again prior to painting? WOULDN'T HURT - YOU ARE BOUND TO HAVE A FEW DRIPS/SAGS. > When you say a quart of enamel what exactly is that? In the store there's > latex based, acrylic based or oil based? YOU CAN USE JUST ABOUT ANY PAINT, BUT ACE OR RUSTOLEUM OIL BASED ENAMEL AT ABOUT $8 PER QUART WILL GO ON NICELY AND LOOK FINE. > If I don't mind the multi color patches could I leave the epoxy primer over > the entire hull as the 'paint'? YES THE ENAMEL IS MOSTLY FOR LOOKS. THE EPOXY ITSELF WILL YELLOW AND LOSE IT SHINE, BUT IF YOU DON'T CARE... PAUL > thanks again Somebody wrote: > "prime" the repair spots with solvent thinned epoxy. Why solvent? Why thin the epoxy? If you must thin epoxy, why not denatured alcohol (5% max) > "patch/fair" those spots with either an exterior putty or > thickened epoxy. Laminating epoxy and micrro-balloons? It makes great fairing putty. >Now prime the entire hull with more solvent > thinned epoxy. Why? That's why "high build primer" exists. A gallon kit should cover the entire canoe at least two (2) coats.. > Then paint with a quart of enamel from the hardware store. A one part marine enamel compatible with the high build primer isn't going to break the bank. After investing all your time, what is the incentive to cut corners and maybe save $10-$20?. Lew > Somebody wrote: > >> "prime" the repair spots with solvent thinned epoxy. > Why solvent? > > Why thin the epoxy? UNTHINNED EPOXY IS LIKE PAINTING WITH HONEY. THINNING PROVIDES A DEGREE OF PENETRATION, LONGER POT LIFE, AND EASY TO APPLY > If you must thin epoxy, why not denatured alcohol (5% max) 70-90% ISO ALCOHOL WORKS, BUT THE ACETONE, ETC. TYPE SOLVENTS MORE COMMONLY USED >> "patch/fair" those spots with either an exterior putty or >> thickened epoxy. > > Laminating epoxy and micrro-balloons? WORKS TOO BUT EPOXY IS HARDER TO SAND... > It makes great fairing putty. > >> Now prime the entire hull with more solvent >> thinned epoxy. > > Why? BECAUSE HULL IS SUN DAMAGED WEATHERED GLASS. A THIN COAT OF EPOXY MAKES A FRESH BONDING SURFACE FOR ANY TOPCOAT OF PAINT. ALSO SEALS THE PATCH SPOTS. ALSO IF SKIP THIS STEP THE PAINT OVER THE PATCHES MAY HAVE A DIFFERENT LEVEL OF GLOSS > That's why "high build primer" exists. AGAIN, NOT FOR BUILD BUT FOR BONDING. EPOXIES ARE GENERALLY THE BEST OF PRIMERS.... > A gallon kit should cover the entire canoe at least two (2) coats.. > >> Then paint with a quart of enamel from the hardware store. WE ALSO SELL HIGH END COMMERCIAL ENAMELS AND 2 PART LPU POLYS, BUT ON A PROJECT LIKE THIS HARDWARE STORE ENAMEL IS FINE. NOTE: I ONCE HAD A BUSINESS ASSOCIATED WHO WAS PLANT MANAGER AT GIANT PAINT COMPANY. PAINT BATCHES WERE 10,000 GALLONS. PART OF IT SOLD IN 5 GAL UNITS FOR CONTRACTORS. LAST FEW GALLONS PACKED AND PRICE FOR THE MARINE MARKET. THAT SAID, OUR INDUSTRIAL ENAMEL IS MUCH BETTER IN TESTING THAN THE HARDWARE STORE ENAMEL. HOWEVER, FOR I USE THE HARDWARE STORE STUFF ANYWAY. ANOTHER OPTION IS 'CHEAP' ENAMEL AND A 2 PART POLY CLEAR COAT OVER IT. THE CLEAR IS EASIER THAN THE PIGMENTED STUFF (MISTAKES DON'T SHOW) AND A LOT CHEAPER. PAUL PROGRESSIVE EPOXY > A one part marine enamel compatible with the high build primer isn't > going to break the bank. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Lew > UNTHINNED EPOXY IS LIKE PAINTING WITH HONEY. THINNING PROVIDES A DEGREE OF > PENETRATION, LONGER POT LIFE, AND EASY TO APPLY Maybe where you get you're epoxy it's the consistancy of congealed snot, but my supplier put enough diluant in his laminating epoxy so that it easily wets out the glass. > 70-90% ISO ALCOHOL WORKS, BUT THE ACETONE, ETC. TYPE SOLVENTS MORE > COMMONLY USED Since laminating epoxy doesn't contain any VOCs in the first place, why introduce them when denatured alcohol works just fine and doesn't alter the finished material? > WORKS TOO BUT EPOXY IS HARDER TO SAND... Than what, fairing putty? >> Why? > > BECAUSE HULL IS SUN DAMAGED WEATHERED GLASS. A THIN COAT OF EPOXY MAKES A > FRESH BONDING SURFACE FOR ANY TOPCOAT OF PAINT. ALSO SEALS THE PATCH > SPOTS. ALSO IF SKIP THIS STEP THE PAINT OVER THE PATCHES MAY HAVE A > DIFFERENT LEVEL OF GLOSS Again, that's why high build primer exists. > AGAIN, NOT FOR BUILD BUT FOR BONDING. EPOXIES ARE GENERALLY THE BEST OF > PRIMERS.... Huh? Why do you think high build primer exists? > WE ALSO SELL HIGH END COMMERCIAL ENAMELS AND 2 PART LPU POLYS, BUT ON A > PROJECT LIKE THIS HARDWARE STORE ENAMEL IS FINE. Guess I value my time more than you do. What ever floats your boat. Lew PS: The coatings industry, both architectural and industrial, are also one of my major customers of mine. That and $5 will get you a cup of coffee in a cheap restaurant. |
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