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Boat Forum / Building / June 2008Fixin the MiniCup spars
The original plans for the MiniCup calls for a 1/4-20 u-bolt to join the gaff and boom so they can move relative to each other. Unfortunately, the boom's thin metal has torn (after 4 yrs of use) so the were going to separate. So, I got a piece of 2X4 and cut it to fit into the end. I cut two pieces, drilled a hole lengthwise thru each and inserted a long 5/16 bolt after I bent the shank near the eyes slightly. I opened one of the eyes and joined the two eyes. Then I glassed over eacjh of them to make em stronger and inserted them into the spar ends and screwed them into place thru the aluminum. It ought to be fairly strong. Does anyone have a ballpark or minimum figure on building one? I realise prices will vary from area to area. Thanks > <ohara...@mindspring.com> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Thanks I believe it could be done reasonably for $400. This would not use the cheapest materials but not the best either. I'd really like to see a modern stitch and glue version of the MiniCup. > I believe it could be done reasonably for $400. This would not use > the cheapest materials but not the best either. > I'd really like to see a modern stitch and glue version of the MiniCup. Thanks, thought about building one a couple of years ago , with the gas prices I'm giving it some serious thought this time. > <ohara...@mindspring.com> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Thanks, thought about building one a couple of years ago , with the gas > prices I'm giving it some serious thought this time. I think that by using 3 mm ply, stitch and glue instead of the stringers the plans have and then glassing with 4 oz. glass, the new MiniCup could be made considerably lighter than the old version. I'd use 18 oz biax around the mast step and daggerboard hole and maybe 8 oz around the cockpit edges. On Jun 8, 12:00 pm, ohara...@mindspring.com wrote: > > <ohara...@mindspring.com> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > use 18 oz biax around the mast step and daggerboard hole and maybe 8 > oz around the cockpit edges. BTW, do not use normal mild steel screws as I did, order stainless from Jamestown Supply. After 4 years, my boats that are sailed in salt water have the screws under the epoxied joints rusting and expanding creating a mess at the edges. I had to dig all of them out on one boat and glass over the joint. This year I have to do the second boat the same way. > BTW, do not use normal mild steel screws as I did, order stainless > from Jamestown Supply. After 4 years, my boats that are sailed in > salt water have the screws under the epoxied joints rusting and > expanding creating a mess at the edges. I had to dig all of them out > on one boat and glass over the joint. This year I have to do the > second boat the same way. That was the one thing I'm not going to skimp on , it will be used in a high salt brackish water. |
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