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Boat Forum / Building / April 2004Getting hosed
I'm sure there's a good reason - but my initial looking discloses two basic types of sanitation hose. Both claim the same purpose (keep the stuff and the odor inside while on the way outside), but there's one which is 3x the price of the other. What's the difference, other than the obvious price? Easier to use? Won't let the odor/seep through, ever, vs some number of years? Stays whiter in more conditions? The difference, in boat money terms, is pretty insignificant, I'd say (some couple-three hundred bux for the standard 50' roll), but if it's not needed, I can use that couple-three somewhere else. Anybody used both (e.g. "148" vs "Sealand") who can give experiential input? Thanks. L8R Skip Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2  Signature"And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a clear night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize that you are quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to you that in the general scheme of things you are merely an insignificant speck on the surface of the ocean; and are not nearly so important or as self-sufficient as you thought you were. Which is an exceedingly wholesome thought, and one that may effect a permanent change in your deportment that will be greatly appreciated by your friends." - James S. Pitkin > I'm sure there's a good reason - but my initial looking discloses two basic > types of sanitation hose. [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > SV Flying Pig > http://tinyurl.com/384p2 Skip, Spend the extra money. The Sealand "Odorsafe" hose is actually from an Aussie company, its real product name is AVS96. There may be other companies distributing this hose in the states since I believe they've started to manufacture it here. I used a small piece of it when I first rerouted my sanitation system a few years back. It was the section from the holding tank to the y-valve so it was constantly bathed in black water. No detectable permeation in three years. I've now replace nearly all my sanitation runs with the AVS96 product. I purchased some a few months ago from Fisheries Supply in Seattle and it's the same product I've used from Sealand. It's harder to work with than the Trident hose but well worth the work and investment. No interest in the product other than a satisfied customer. jps Skip, you got good advice from JPS and Glenn. SeaLand "OdorSafe" and the Aussie "Odorfree" hose have proven in independent testing to be 16 x more resistant to odor permation than any other sanitation hose on the market. It's stiff as an ironing board, though...which means you'll most likely need to use inline radius fittings. Don't ever heat ANY hose to bend it tighter than it wants to bend easily...you'll damage the hose. I've seen it kink, and even develop tears on the outside of a hard bend. > The Sealand "Odorsafe" hose is actually from an Aussie company, its real > product name is AVS96. There may be other companies distributing this > hose in the states since I believe they've started to manufacture it > here. They haven't begun mfr'g it here, only distributing it under their own brand name. For nearly 10 years, SeaLand was the exclusive US distributer...they private labelled it "OdorSafe." I don't have the inside skinny (yet) about why that deal is over, but the Aussies aren't selling it to SeaLand any more at all...they're marketing it here under their own brand name "AVS96 Odorfree." Here's a link to the Aussies' website about it: http://www.aussieglobe.com/avs96.htm Meanwhile, SeaLand has just introduced "OdorSafe Plus," which they claim is even better and is made in Italy. Price is the about the same for it as for original OdorSafe/AVS96. I haven't seen any test results on it yet, so I'm taking a "wait and see" stance for now. But I do know that the AVS96 stuff is all but totally impervious to odor permeation...it's readily available here...and that's what I'd use if it were my own boat. SignaturePeggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_rid_of_boat_odors.html http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detail.tpl?fno=400&group=327 > It's stiff as an ironing board, though...which means you'll > most likely need to use inline radius fittings. Peggie, What are "inline radius fittings"? I haven't heard of these before. Do you have a url for these on the web? (I did a quick search and didn't find anything.) Cindy Signaturethe return email is a spam trap send legit emails to cindy_at_ballreich_dot_net > What are "inline radius fittings"? I haven't heard of these before. Do > you have a url for these on the web? (I did a quick search and didn't > find anything.) Try here: http://www.sealandservices.com/hose_fittings.htm Scroll down till you come to the fittings. SignaturePeggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_rid_of_boat_odors.html >> What are "inline radius fittings"? > > Try here: http://www.sealandservices.com/hose_fittings.htm Scroll down > till you come to the fittings. Thank you! I didn't notice a connector for a "slightly oversized" barbed male thru-hull fitting. Talk about blood, sweat, and tears - I had all three in abundance before my husband took over and used a piece of rubber exhaust hose. (Better the head that works and smells, than the head that can't be used at all.) Any good suggestions for making this work without heating (and splitting) the hose? Cindy Signaturethe return email is a spam trap send legit emails to cindy_at_ballreich_dot_net Carve a small chemfer on the inside of the hose at the end. Immerse the hose end in hot water. Lube the fitting and the hose interior with liquid dish detergent. <SNIP> > Any good > suggestions for making this work without heating (and splitting) > the hose? [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > the return email is a spam trap > send legit emails to cindy_at_ballreich_dot_net > Carve a small chemfer on the inside of the hose at the end. > Immerse the hose end in hot water. > Lube the fitting and the hose interior with liquid dish detergent. Tried that. Got about half an inch on before it started to split. Also, once it cooled, the heated parts seemed to be harder than the rest of the hose. I've also tried dish soap, olive oil, mineral oil, and west marine hose oil. Signaturethe return email is a spam trap send legit emails to cindy_at_ballreich_dot_net >> Carve a small chemfer on the inside of the hose at the end. >> Immerse the hose end in hot water. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > I've also tried dish soap, olive oil, mineral oil, and west marine hose > oil. KY SignatureGlenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com Glenn says: >KY I originally read that as "OK - why?" and wondered why West Marine Hose Oil was so bad. I guess it's just a slow day down here.... Steve > I've also tried dish soap, olive oil, mineral oil, and west marine hose > oil. West Marine actually markets an oil labelled just for hose connections??? I hope it's water soluble, 'cuz no oil or grease should ever be used on a hose connections 'cuz it leaves the surfaces permanently slippery...the hose can work its back off, even if securely clamped. No petroleum based products should be used 'cuz they're destructive to rubber. Dishwashing liquid or better yet, K-Y jelly (water soluble surgical jelly), are the only acceptable hose lubricants I know of. SignaturePeggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_rid_of_boat_odors.html >>> What are "inline radius fittings"? >> [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > >Cindy Stretching hose, specially plastic hose, specially by heating, is not the greatest idea, long-term. Tensional loads have a way of splitting the ends, sooner or later. Brian W > I didn't notice a connector for a "slightly oversized" barbed male > thru-hull fitting. Talk about blood, sweat, and tears - I had all three > in abundance before my husband took over and used a piece of rubber > exhaust hose. (Better the head that works and smells, than the head that > can't be used at all.) Any good suggestions for making this work without > heating (and splitting) the hose? Only one solution I can think of, Cindy...a reducing adapter that'll let you put the right size hose on the thru-hull, then step it down to 1.5". SignaturePeggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_rid_of_boat_odors.htm 148 is recommended for grey water and as a bilge hose but it will not stand up to odor permiation in toilet applications. 144 is somewhat better but not much. 101 is the standard black water hose and Sealand's Odorsafe is the best. You don't need a whole lot. I talked to Ed McKunen, president of Sealand (and not my favorite person) about it. We recommend making your longer runs in Schedule 40 PVC with short lengths of Odorsafe to absorb vibration and movement. Skip Gundlach wrote: > I'm sure there's a good reason - but my initial looking discloses two basic > types of sanitation hose. [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > SV Flying Pig > http://tinyurl.com/384p2 SignatureGlenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com > 148 is recommended for grey water and as a bilge hose but it will not > stand up to odor permiation in toilet applications. 144 is somewhat [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > longer runs in Schedule 40 PVC with short lengths of Odorsafe to absorb > vibration and movement. Completely agree. Here's more info an schedule 40 and pvc from a learned TWL subscriber: "From my experience of designing plumbing systems for industy and commercial applications, I would opt for using PVC over ABS. There are some necessary precautions that should be taken. First of all, use schedule 40 PVC and not the thin DWV (drain waste vent) pipe. Secondly, if using the DWV fittings which have a larger radius, make sure that they have the long sockets to allow as much glued area as possible. Third, do not clamp near a fitting but rather allow the pipe absorb any flex rather than the fitting. BTW, our industrial applications were subject to considerably more vibration and flexing than I have ever seen on our boat. PVC pipe is not brittle unless exposed to UV rays from sunlight. I have seen some suppliers store it outside and that pipe could be already brittle when purchased. A couple of other notes, PVC pipe can be bent with the application of heat to meet any special situations. Another thought would be to use scdl 40 PVC electrical conduit. This is gray in color, UV protected, and there are a number of sweep elbows available." jps Thanks to all for the various responses - and I'm enjoying the permutations this thread is taking, as most ones which go beyond a single response eventually seem to do, as well. However, I wanted to explore this response a bit: > 148 is recommended for grey water and as a bilge hose but it will not > stand up to odor permiation in toilet applications. 144 is somewhat > better but not much. 101 is the standard black water hose and Sealand's > Odorsafe is the best. I see from their website that they now have an improved version (in 2004) (abbreviated hereafter as SLOS+). I presume that means I'll need to be careful where I buy it, as old stock might be present. I don't know if the newer stuff has a price premium, either - but it seems the concensus is that SLOS would last the lifetime of the boat, so perhaps it's of no event? > You don't need a whole lot. I talked to Ed McKunen, president of > Sealand (and not my favorite person) about it. We recommend making your > longer runs in Schedule 40 PVC with short lengths of Odorsafe to absorb > vibration and movement. I'd be interested to know what it was you talked about, and why the personality clash. As to the longer runs, I'm all for the S40PVC - but wonder if I can use the normal elbows and 45s to accomplish the transitions which would be present in my rerunning the lines. For example, the current installation of the aft head is a curved section from the down-facing outlet of the Raritan PHII joker housing, reaching, eventually, the aft engine room bulkhead for a fairly long run to the vented loop before going (back, from the loop) down to a Y. I could see installing a 3-piece, two-L (preferably long radius, I assume) PVC section, with the small sections of SLOS+, to do the same job. If so, would it be appropriate to support the horizontal (under the aft head sole) run, or would the bulkhead alone, or, even, perhaps, just the two double-clamped (making 4 clamps in a relatively short pipe!) SLOS+ sections suffice? And, for that matter, would it be better *not* to secure them, but to allow the SLOS+ sections to act as buffers? All the other installations would likely be permutations of the same, so they're not worth discussion here. However, not having done any such installations, I wonder if the SLOS+ slips on the outside of S40PVC, or if some sort of transition is needed? In particular, even if it did, the walls are smooth - would I need some sort of barbing? From a neat-nik and practicality perspective, I really like the concept of S40PVC. I was all set to buy a roll of SLOS+, but if I can make it work, I'd certainly prefer this on many levels. Thanks again to all for all the input. L8R Skip and Lydia PS I'm some time away from it, but logs of the delivery/shakedown adventures will be forthcoming when I have dug out from under all that's here after 3 weeks away and recovered from the surgery of yesterday... SignatureMorgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 -- "And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a clear night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize that you are quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to you that in the general scheme of things you are merely an insignificant speck on the surface of the ocean; and are not nearly so important or as self-sufficient as you thought you were. Which is an exceedingly wholesome thought, and one that may effect a permanent change in your deportment that will be greatly appreciated by your friends." - James S. Pitkin Skip Gundlach wrote: >>148 is recommended for grey water and as a bilge hose but it will not >>stand up to odor permiation in toilet applications. 144 is somewhat >>better but not much. 101 is the standard black water hose and Sealand's >>Odorsafe is the best. > I see from their website that they now have an improved version (in 2004) > (abbreviated hereafter as SLOS+). I presume that means I'll need to be > careful where I buy it, as old stock might be present. It doesn't matter whether you get "old" OdorSafe, AVS96 (which is the same thing as "old" OS, but without SL's private label brand on it), or "new" SLOS+. Of course SL is gonna call their new hose "new and improved"--doesn't every mfr any time they change ANY even the color of something?--but that's no guarantee that it's any better than the original...which, btw, was outstanding. > I don't know if the > newer stuff has a price premium, either - but it seems the concensus is that > SLOS would last the lifetime of the boat, so perhaps it's of no event? All 3 versions have about the same price tag. > I'd be interested to know what it was you talked about, and why the > personality clash. He's not my favorite person either...I suspect for the same reasons Glenn doesn't like him. > As to the longer runs, I'm all for the S40PVC - but > wonder if I can use the normal elbows and 45s to accomplish the transitions [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > eventually, the aft engine room bulkhead for a fairly long run to the vented > loop before going (back, from the loop) down to a Y. Just how long ARE these runs? The tank should be within 6' of the toilet. > I could see installing... Skip... don't over-engineer it...KISS! The simpler, more straightforward the plumbing, the better. If the current tank location will allow that, it appears from your description of the plumbing that there are so many bends in it that hard pipe will only over-complicate things...use hose. If ther's a better location for the tank that will simplify the plumbing, move it, even if that means replacing the tank to get one that will fit the space. You're welcome to get with me via email and/or phone to work it out. SignaturePeggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_rid_of_boat_odors.html Hi, Peggie, and group, > > As to the longer runs, I'm all for the S40PVC - but > > wonder if I can use the normal elbows and 45s to accomplish the transitions [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Just how long ARE these runs? The tank should be within 6' of the toilet. The forward head has a holding tank - new, never used and the only place where there's new white (don't know the type) hose. I'll leave it in place, but doubt seriously that it will ever get used. The aft head once had one, I presume, because there's a pumpout on deck, but I've seen no evidence of it. Both heads have LectraSans, both of which, likewise, I'd like never to use. That's because we'll be in places, nearly always, where direct overboard is appropriate. Talk about KISS :{)) As to not using the LS - Not because they don't work - as far as I know, they work fine, including that the aft unit is new. I just don't like the electrical overhead on a system which seems challenged, somehow, already, despite being nearly new 4xT105s. As to the runs, the original example is a little over 6' - but that's only because the pipe has a long upward run for the vented loop. Specifically, if it were to be SLOS/equivalent, it would be about 66" to the vented loop. However, if I could eliminate the dip in the lower portion (run it horizontal from a wide-radius ELL) it would be a bit shorter because I'd be doing whatever that mathematical item is which cuts a circle at a point before the top/bottom, rather than taking the circumferential route. Likewise, I'm not sure the riser loop has to be as high as it is, but for the sake of a few riser inches (times 3, as the Y below has two legs which would be shortened, as well), it's probably not worth lowering the vent. In the case of the aft head, the runs are very easy - straight pipe (with the two ells) would accomplish all of it easily. The forward head is another story. That might be very difficult to achieve due to the layout making a stick difficult, where something flexible would go more easily. Relating to another thread, this boat has all Jabsco Ys - the older ones, white, with a lever-style handle with an end which goes around the shaft, rather than the current T style handle, black plastic, and widely separated exits. The one in the forward head has the handle broken (the part around the shaft) as it wouldn't turn, and I'm stronger than the plastic, which was weaker than the resistance to turning. Any idea where I'd get a new handle? These are the older style, I presume - and the good thing, as far as I'm concerned, about them, is that they output in the same direction, and close together, rather than in an equilateral Y - which would save me some 45s were I to convert to some other Y valves. All but the aforementioned forward head example, which has two, work just fine, so I presume there's no reason to replace them. > > I could see installing... > > Skip... don't over-engineer it...KISS! The simpler, more straightforward > the plumbing, the better. If the current tank location will allow that, > it appears from your description of the plumbing that there are so many > bends in it that hard pipe will only over-complicate things...use hose. Not quite so. Just the one above, which would eliminate a low spot, as well. That's the place the crystals became a solid (cured by a couple of days worth of sailing with vinegar in the mix) in the first section of head output. Because there's a LSan in the engine room, though, the diversion to that unit *also* uses up a fairly long run, both ways, off to the side (79 and 70 inches, respectively). The layout is head-loop, loop-Y(a)(b), (a) lectrasan-in/out (b) direct to a T of overhead and LS-out, T-out. The only loop/bend in the entirety is the first run, if you ignore the vented loop. Seems like a very good application of hard pipe. The horizontal portion of the head-Y part would be perhaps a foot or so - and, of course, if I leave the LSan in, those are both in the 6 foot range (after the Y and before the T)... > If ther's a better location for the tank that will simplify the > plumbing, move it, even if that means replacing the tank to get one that > will fit the space. > > You're welcome to get with me via email and/or phone to work it out. I'm not sure I want a tank, as per above. However, if I decide to leave the LS's in place, it would probably be a good idea to relocate the aft one, as the total pipe to *it* is well over 6'. OTOH, what are used LS worth? As far as I can see, currently, they're taking up useful space, and to use them is pretty expensive in my electrical budget. If they have a significant value, I'd like to sell them. Thanks for your offer - if I get desperate, I'll take you up on it. FWIW, we read your book cover to cover on the delivery run... L8R Skip and Lydia Morgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 Signature"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain > You don't need a whole lot. I talked to Ed McKunen, president of > Sealand (and not my favorite person) about it. We recommend making your > longer runs in Schedule 40 PVC with short lengths of Odorsafe to absorb > vibration and movement. Does the hose go over the pipe, or are some intermediate fittings needed to work? L8R Skip SignatureMorgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - Mark Twain Shields makes straight and 90º threaded hose adaptors and Sealand sells a straight PVC to hose adaptor. Both are exactly the right size to fit 1 1/2" sanitation hose. They cost about $8/each and slip on with a little KY jelley. Most of my runs are a Shields adaptor threaded into the tank, 12" to 24" of Sealand hose, a Seland adaptor and then Schedule 40. If I had to go around a corner I used sweep ells or 45s. On the head end there is another Sealand transition to a short length of hose which then fits on the head outlet. BTW, I have a couple of Shields 90s, a straight and a couple of Sealand straight transitions left over if anybody needs them. Skip Gundlach wrote: >>You don't need a whole lot. I talked to Ed McKunen, president of >>Sealand (and not my favorite person) about it. We recommend making your [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Skip SignatureGlenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com A brief followup to the original question, which was about Sealand OdorsafePlus and other sanitation hose: Various posters have worried over, or enthused over, PVC as boat pipe. In particular, though: > You don't need a whole lot. I talked to Ed McKunen, president of > Sealand (and not my favorite person) about it. We recommend making your > longer runs in Schedule 40 PVC with short lengths of Odorsafe to absorb > vibration and movement. From this - and the presence of a large number of fittings on their site - I infer that using PVC where possible is the preferred modus. Is that so? And WRT movement, is it better to let it hang, with the hose being the boat equivalent of muffler hangers on a car, or to support longer sections firmly (e.g. the riser to the vented loop, which could be secured to a bulkhead)? And one other question - am I likely to find these fittings at a West, or are they direct or special order? Should I use large radius fittings in between ends, or just their 90s? I'm thrilled to think that I might be able to use PVC for large segments of the waste plumbing - not so much for cost, but that it would (presumably) be the end of it, not to mention that the smallest possible segments of *any* hose would limit the amount of exposure to future smelly issues.. Thanks for any experience... L8R Skip SignatureMorgan 461 #2 SV Flying Pig http://tinyurl.com/384p2 "And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a clear night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize that you are quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to you that in the general scheme of things you are merely an insignificant speck on the surface of the ocean; and are not nearly so important or as self-sufficient as you thought you were. Which is an exceedingly wholesome thought, and one that may effect a permanent change in your deportment that will be greatly appreciated by your friends." - James S. Pitkin Support the pipe well every 24-26". Do not allow the fittings to be subjected to stress. The Shields and Sealand fittings only come straight and 90s. Try to use the straights where ever possible and sweeps on all pipe to pipe turns. Like I said, I have some extra hose fittings if you need them. Skip Gundlach wrote: > A brief followup to the original question, which was about Sealand > OdorsafePlus and other sanitation hose: [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > > Skip SignatureGlenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com Not really an answer to your question but...I saw hose that looked suspiciously like marine sanitation hose in my neighborhood hardware store the other day and when I asked the salesman about it he said it was hot tub hose. Don't remember the actual price, but it was enough of a difference to convince me to try it next time. I've also found tygon (sp?) tubing with the colored reinforcements and all at a farm supply for alot less than boat store people sell it for. "Skip Gundlach" <skip.sezremovethispartformailingme@engr.uga.edu> wrote in message news:pHWec.7884$k05.2414@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net... > I'm sure there's a good reason - but my initial looking discloses two basic > types of sanitation hose. [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > permanent change in your deportment that will be greatly appreciated > by your friends." - James S. Pitkin > I saw hose that looked > suspiciously like marine sanitation hose in my neighborhood hardware store > the other day and when I asked the salesman about it he said it was hot tub > hose. Don't remember the actual price, but it was enough of a difference to > convince me to try it next time. You'll be sorry. Not all white flexible pvc hose is created equal...and hot tub hose is not rated for sanitation system use, only for water use. It'll permeate with odor very quickly. > I've also found tygon (sp?) tubing with the colored reinforcements and all > at a farm supply for alot less than boat store people sell it for. That may be ok, but if it'll be connected to any below-waterline thru-hulls, make sure it's a grade that's rated for below-waterline use. Flex hoses are like hard PVC in that they have "schedule" #s...schedule 148, 144 and 101 are rated for sanitation use...I'm not sure what the "schedules" are for clear hose, but they also use a standardized system that will tell you which hoses are rated for below waterline use and which ones aren't. SignaturePeggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_rid_of_boat_odors.html Thanks for the clarification Peggy. I'll check the ratings on the hot tub hose and let you know what I come up with. I would imagine that if I can get the manufacturers part #s at the hardware store, I could compare with #s on marine hose. MMC > > I saw hose that looked > > suspiciously like marine sanitation hose in my neighborhood hardware store [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" > http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_rid_of_boat_odors.html > Thanks for the clarification Peggy. I'll check the ratings on the hot tub > hose and let you know what I come up with. > I would imagine that if I can get the manufacturers part #s at the hardware > store, I could compare with #s on marine hose. You don't need mfr's part #s, only the industry standard numbers...which should be marked (in fact, I THINK it's required, but I could be wrong) at intervals on all hose. As for buying sanitation hose based on price...which is really more expensive--$3.50/ft every few years...or $8/ft just once? Not to mention what a major PITA job it is to replace hoses. Bite the bullet and go with the SeaLand or AVS hose, along with all the necessary radius fittings to do the job right, so you'll never have to do it again. - Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_rid_of_boat_odors.html Powerboat Reports tested all the major sanitation hoses and Sealand's Odorsafe came out far above the rest. It has a layer of something like Saran wrap co-extruded in the hose to make it a lot more resistant to permeation. I replaced all the hoses that came with my 16 year old boat with it. Not a problem ever since, and I don't expect any for a long time. Now, if you're really on a budget, get whatever sanitation hose you can afford, and wrap it with Saran wrap. SignatureKeith __ If flying is so safe, why do they call the airport the terminal? "Skip Gundlach" <skip.sezremovethispartformailingme@engr.uga.edu> wrote in message news:pHWec.7884$k05.2414@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net... > I'm sure there's a good reason - but my initial looking discloses two basic > types of sanitation hose. [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > SV Flying Pig > http://tinyurl.com/384p2 How about solid copper pipe with short sections of that expensive hose just to join to the thru hull and toilet itself etc.... Waste odors wont seep thru solid copper piping. Shoot, you could even JB weld epoxy the pieces of copper together instead of using metal solder. "Skip Gundlach" <skip.sezremovethispartformailingme@engr.uga.edu> wrote in message news:pHWec.7884$k05.2414@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net... > I'm sure there's a good reason - but my initial looking discloses two basic > types of sanitation hose. [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > SV Flying Pig > http://tinyurl.com/384p2 > How about solid copper pipe with short sections of that expensive hose just > to join to the thru hull and toilet itself etc.... > Waste odors wont seep thru solid copper piping. > Shoot, you could even JB weld epoxy the pieces of copper together instead of > using metal solder. Copper pipe is often used in boat fresh water systems, but urine is so corrosive that copper isn't recommended for waste piping. SignaturePeggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_rid_of_boat_odors.html |
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