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Boat Forum / Cruising / June 2006Yanmar 1GM10
Good morning I hope someone can help with an annoying problem. I have a Yanmar 1GM10 inboard on my small sailing boat. It runs really well. Recently I had it serviced, oil changed etc. including replacing the impeller. It has had a salt water leak for many years before I owned the boat. I have only owned the vessel for 2 years. The salt water is coming through the impeller housing, and dripping from the designed hole between the impeller and the engine. I sense this is where the engine shaft goes through to drive the impeller. It is not coming from a gasket - that would be too easy! I did not see what the seal is like where the shaft enters the area of the impeller. Is there a replaceable seal there? Will it need a new impeller housing? I hope not. No gaskets are leaking at all. He put on a new gasket when he replaced the impeller. I would appreciate any information you may have in this regard. Many thanks Do you mean the hole where the shaft that drives the impeller goes into the engine or a small hole on top of the pump housing?  SignatureRoger Long > Good morning > [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Many thanks Hi Roger Not on the pump housing where the impeller is. It looks like a designed hole, sort of oblong with rounded corners, on the narrow part of the pump housing shaft area that drives the impeller. I am assuming the water is coming from the housing between the impeller and drive shaft seal, then runs along the shaft and dropping through the hole. Thanks > Do you mean the hole where the shaft that drives the impeller goes into > the engine or a small hole on top of the pump housing? [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] >> >> Many thanks It's not what I thought it might me. The other reply pretty well covers it. You need to either start taking it apart or have someone look at it. SignatureRoger Long > Hi Roger > [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] >>> >>> Many thanks > It's not what I thought it might me. The other reply pretty well covers > it. [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] >>>> >>>> Many thanks Depco Pump may be able to help. www.depco-pump.com. --Alan Gomes Most of the pumps I've seen have a pair of rubber seals on the shaft- one to keep the salt water inside the pump and the other to keep the oil inside the engine. As you've observed, leaks generally drip from the gap in the pump housing casting. As long as the leak is small, this is not a huge problem. However, it won't cure itself and will only get worse. Once the seal fails completely, you won't have good cooling flow and you will be stuck. This is generally a pretty easy repair, once you get the pump separated from the engine. Be sure to have the new seals in hand before you start the repair. Depending on the age of the pump, and the amount of grit in the water, the shaft may be scored/worn in the area of the seals. Sometimes (eg if you are not near replacement parts) you can polish this up with emery paper so the new seal will not be trashed. Otherwise, you should replace the shaft while you have the pump torn down. There are a pair of bearings in there as well- getting them on/off/replaced without messing them up needs some patience and the right collection of tubes/sockets, etc to drive (or press) things apart without trashing the bearings. Sometimes you can do the job without having to mess with the bearings- assuming they are ok. Water pumps and impellers are a common failure/wear area, so probably a good place to start doing your own repairs. If you're nervous, you could save quite a few dollars by just pulling the pump and taking it along to your mechanic so he can do the job on his bench. I've done this a couple of times on my Westerbeke- fortunately both times tied to a nice quiet dock! John > Most of the pumps I've seen have a pair of rubber seals on the shaft- > one to keep the salt water inside the pump and the other to keep the [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > without trashing the bearings. Sometimes you can do the job without > having to mess with the bearings- assuming they are ok. On the previous engine I had, I bought a rebuild kit usually that had a new shaft and seals. I think this is standard for most water pumps. About every third impeller replacement, I would order the kit. Leanne s/v Fundy >On the previous engine I had, I bought a rebuild kit usually that had a new >shaft and seals. >I think this is standard for most water pumps. About every third impeller >replacement, I would order the kit. Probably good advice since my experience is that water pumps are one of the first things to fail at approximately 500 to 1000 hours. My recommendation would be to buy a complete spare pump and rebuild the old one at your leisure. By all means, do not ignore the leaking seal. Things will only get worse and end with a total failure at some inopportune time. http://www.depcopump.com/home.htm or http://www.torresen.com/ These engines were brought in for the Great Lakes and not meant for salt water use. Get that leak fixed very quick. The steel tube transferring the lubrication oil from one side to the other runs under the leak and will rust and let the lubricating oil drain out and you will run dry that is what happened to me. Hundred dollars of repair/maintenance is nothing compare to a new engine. If you do not know your way around diesel get someone that does and pay the penalty. If you happen to lose you engine power at sea the cost will be more. The cost for towing a boat in the US is not always free let alone the aggravation. While you're getting the leak fixed check the lubrication steel tube and if it is rusted replace it. >>On the previous engine I had, I bought a rebuild kit usually that had a >>new [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > http://www.torresen.com/ > These engines were brought in for the Great Lakes and not meant for > salt water use. They run damn near forever in salt water though. Otherwise, excellent advice. BTW do you know if the 2GM20(H) has the oil tube in the same place and if the pump is the same configuration? SignatureRoger Long If you don't already have the manual(s), you might want to take a look here. http://www.motoren.ath.cx/ BF > > These engines were brought in for the Great Lakes and not meant for > > salt water use. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > BTW do you know if the 2GM20(H) has the oil tube in the same place and > if the pump is the same configuration? "BF" <bobfreelingz@yahoo.com> wrote in news:ebe45$449e92f0$48316876$18789 @FUSE.NET: > http://www.motoren.ath.cx/ The website prevents you from SAVING the manuals with a javascript downloading. If you right click on a manual pointer, they tell you the manuals are "their stuff" in a popup Javascript refusal. I don't know what else their javascripts do that might be dangerous to your systems....the code is LONG. The Perkins 4.107/4.108 manual is missing. Useless. The computer won't fit in the engine room so you can see the manual.... Nuts.... I din't have any trouble saving the Volvo manual. Which one couldn't you save. Why not just print it out? Mike > "BF" <bobfreelingz@yahoo.com> wrote in news:ebe45$449e92f0$48316876$18789 > @FUSE.NET: [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Nuts.... "Mike" <mike.stover@comcast.net> wrote in news:1151249620.375190.181400 @u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com: > I din't have any trouble saving the Volvo manual. Which one couldn't > you save. > > Why not just print it out? One of the other Perkins manuals refused to let me right-click to get to the save function of Internet Exploder. I didn't try any of the others after receiving the javascript warning popup window. > "Mike" <mike.stover@comcast.net> wrote in news:1151249620.375190.181400 > @u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com: [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > the save function of Internet Exploder. I didn't try any of the others > after receiving the javascript warning popup window. I downloaded the 2QM15 service manual, no problem. SignatureStephen ------- For any proposition there is always some sufficiently narrow interpretation of its terms, such that it turns out true, and some sufficiently wide interpretation such that it turns out false...concept stretching will refute *any* statement, and will leave no true statement whatsoever. -- Imre Lakatos > "BF" <bobfreelingz@yahoo.com> wrote in news:ebe45$449e92f0$48316876$18789 > @FUSE.NET: [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Nuts.... Don't recall saying you HAD to look or giving any guarantees. BF > "BF" <bobfreelingz@yahoo.com> wrote in news:ebe45$449e92f0$48316876$18789 > @FUSE.NET: [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Nuts.... Mine will, it's a laptop! But um, I'm afraid I'll get grease all over it. SignatureStephen ------- For any proposition there is always some sufficiently narrow interpretation of its terms, such that it turns out true, and some sufficiently wide interpretation such that it turns out false...concept stretching will refute *any* statement, and will leave no true statement whatsoever. -- Imre Lakatos Stephen Trapani <fahgetabowtit@wherever.never> wrote in news:26zng.342 $Wz5.245@fe07.lga: > But um, I'm afraid I'll get grease all over it. Imagine it layin in that bilgewater washing over the nice DVD drive in the side.....or falling over and something sharp punching a hole in the screen! Yecch...(c; "Roger Long" <rwlong@maine.rr.com> wrote in news:rhung.32956$W97.19823 @twister.nyroc.rr.com: > BTW do you know if the 2GM20(H) has the oil tube in the same place and > if the pump is the same configuration? While we are talking about little Yanmars, let me make a point for all of you to frequently check the damnable pickup tube in the coolant recovery tank in indirectly-cooled Yanmars with heat exchanger. The tube is under the cap, saving them money on having a proper BOTTOM outlet molded into the tank plastic, itself, that cannot help but pickup any liquids in the tank. The tube under the cap starts to leak...or much worse yet falls off into the tank....allowing, in either case, the heat exchanger to suck air as it cools down, instead of liquid. The heat exchanger has no trouble when it's heating putting liquid INTO the tank, but then sucks itself full of air as it cools. This cycle continues until the heat exchanger is DANGEROUSLY low on coolant, but when the owner inspects the level in the tank, it looks like it has PLENTY of coolant from the high level in the tank. As the level in the heat exchanger gets too low, the engine pukes STEAM out into the coolant recovery tank and the engine overheats..or worse. Make a mark with a grease pencil of the stone cold coolant level after inspecting the coolant level actually inside the heat exchanger's pressure cap to make sure it's full. If that cold level ever RISES, your pickup inside the tank is leaking or has fallen off. Solution is a new piece of hose inside the cap that does NOT go all the way to the bottom of the tank to pick up tank crap....5200 sealed to the cap when it's totally dried because a hose clamp just pinches off the cheap soft plastic the cap is made from. The 5200 makes a permanent bond between hose and cap, I know. But, alas, caps are MUCH cheaper than overheated diesel engines when the tube needs replacing 20 years from now. Unwilling to put up with this problem, I solved it permanently by replacing the whole tank on one boat with a coolant tank out of a car...properly made to withstand coolant pressure with a sealed cap. It has the hose coming out the bottom fitting and will PRESSURE FILL the heat exchanger as its pressure drops, not depend on it sucking fluid through a straw like Yanmar. His tank was empty as it overheated blowing steam into the Yanmar tank with the hose fallen off! The Yanmar tank read FULL! I'd love to survey the tanks in all the Yanmars in a large marina full of sailboats to see how widespread the problem is. They should know better. I recommend checking-out <www.yanmarhelp.com>. The site was not all that easy to find but once connected I had some very specific back and forth discussion with their help desk guru which saved me a lot of time and trouble figuring out an overheating problem with my 3GM30. Good luck, Scott > Good morning > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > impeller. > <SNIP> "scott" <jsodellatgmail.com> wrote in news:12a2nvl97ipjtc6 @corp.supernews.com: > trouble figuring out an overheating problem with my 3GM30. > > Good luck, > Scott What was the cause of your overheating, Scott? It's a tough little 3GM30F which ran pretty well for many many hours with an unrevealed slightly leaky gasket which finally got worse enough to overheat while motorsailing into a headwind off Canaveral last January. The increasingly leaky head gasket (between cylinders 2&3 & the pushrod gallery) started venting into the freshwater cooling side and blowing water out and also deposited unburnt fuel or lube oil into the remaining coolant. Messy -- and the low water level resulted in loss of cooling efficiency. Sailed the rest of the way to Ft. Pierce, planed the head, ground the valves, put her back together with a new gasket and now she starts *instantly* and runs like a charm. The only prior symptom was slow starting when cold. More of the gory details plus some photos are probably still in the archives at that www.yanmarhelp.com site. Scott S/V Itchen > "scott" <jsodellatgmail.com> wrote in news:12a2nvl97ipjtc6 > @corp.supernews.com: [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > What was the cause of your overheating, Scott? > It's a tough little 3GM30F which ran pretty well for many many hours > with an unrevealed slightly leaky gasket which finally got worse [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > starting when cold. More of the gory details plus some photos are > probably still in the archives at that www.yanmarhelp.com site. They really are great engines. Sorry you lost the gasket. When I worked at Charleston Naval Shipyard, may she rest in peace, a painting contractor had a little Yanmar all covered in paint driving a paint pump to a whole bunch of spray nozzles up the side of our big building. It was so covered I could hardly identify it! Cooling water came from a garden hose from the building's water supply and the exhaust just spit it out on the street after cooling the header and waterbox muffler. I asked one of the painters how much trouble they'd had with the little Yanmar. He said, curtly, "None that I know of and I've been painting here for years. We just change the oil in it after every job, about once a month." It seems no other maintenance was necessary...(c; He estimated it had over 10,000 hours on it as it runs 26 days a month, every month, only resting as they moved it to a new contract overnight....24 hours a day on 3 shifts! I want a Yanmar 36hp outboard motor on a nice, long aluminum boat with a center console and wide beam for the river, myself. A Yanmar outboard costs about the same as a Mercedes-Benz E-class from an MB dealer...dammit. They cost so much Yanmar dealers in the states don't have them! Thanks everyone for your help. You confirmed my assumptions, and gave good advice. Thanks > Good morning > [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Many thanks The screw that holds the cam (shoe) in place can also leak. Lee Haefele > Thanks everyone for your help. You confirmed my assumptions, and gave > good advice. [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] >> >> Many thanks |
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