 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
| HomeDiscussion GroupsBoatsPaddle BoatsSailingCruisingBuildingElectronics Related Topics CarsMotorcyclesMore Topics ... |
Boat Forum / Electronics / July 200812 volt stabalizer?
I'm trying to find a stabalizer circuit for the house battery. Someone (probably Larry?) a while back mentioned a device that could take a wide range of input voltages and supply a reliable and smooth 12 VDC. Any ideas? Richard > I'm trying to find a stabalizer circuit for the house battery. > Someone (probably Larry?) a while back mentioned a device that could [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Richard It really depends on how big the Load is. I use a bunch of 3 - 18 Vdc Input, 12 Vdc Output Switching Power Supply Blocks, to run Network Switches and Hubs, in my MicroISP Business, supplying IP Service out here in the Alaskan Bush. I can feed any DC Voltage up the POE (Power over Ethernet) wire as long as the Input to the Remote Power Supplies is within the 3-18 Vdc range of the Input. These Power Supplies can be had in various sizes from 1 -20 Watts. The price rises as the Power goes up. My 5 Watt ones are in the $10US price Range.  SignatureBruce in alaska add <path> after <fast> to reply >>I'm trying to find a stabalizer circuit for the house battery. >>Someone (probably Larry?) a while back mentioned a device that could [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > be had in various sizes from 1 -20 Watts. The price rises as the > Power goes up. My 5 Watt ones are in the $10US price Range. Thanks Bruce, Not a heavy load, a couple of amps, but voltage sensitive. Have you a name for this supply I can Google? Richard Signature(remove the X to email) Now just why the HELL do I have to press 1 for English? John Wayne > Thanks Bruce, > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Richard Look up DC/DC Switching converters in ANY of the big Electronics Warehouse Outfits, like Mouser, DigiKey, Jamesco, Allied, etc. SignatureBruce in alaska add <path> after <fast> to reply > I'm trying to find a stabalizer circuit for the house battery. > Someone (probably Larry?) a while back mentioned a device that could [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Richard Totally unnecessary. Any voltage from 10-18VDC will run any electronics made for boats. If you want to make it smoother, take all the connections apart, wire brush them to a nice shine then put them all back together and spray some battery post protector on them. What you're talking about is a voltage regulator. The only problem is you'd have to have a much higher voltage to start out with than a standard battery. The regulators need "overhead" voltage, unless there's some kind of switching power supply, which I do NOT recommend because switchers make a lot of RF noise to tear up your VHF and SSB radios! The battery is a natural regulator and holds its voltage quite steady at the posts. The voltage drops you see are caused by light wiring, corroded breakers, corroded contacts and wires. by the way....to find where a corroded contact is is quite easy with a simple voltmeter. Load the circuit to full load. Put the meter ACROSS each connection and breaker. If the connection is perfect, you read no voltage. A corroded connector has a voltage drop you can measure UNDER LOAD CURRENT....narrows down where it is. >> I'm trying to find a stabalizer circuit for the house battery. >> Someone (probably Larry?) a while back mentioned a device that could [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >Totally unnecessary. Any voltage from 10-18VDC will run any electronics >made for boats. Not true. I have a spare depth sounder (a cheap Humminbird fish finder) that goes berserk at anything over about 15 volts. Keeping the input voltage to all those other, more expensive instruments controlled at 12 volts lets them run at lower temps, which in electronics, equals longer life and greater reliability. >If you want to make it smoother, take all the connections apart, wire >brush them to a nice shine then put them all back together and spray [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] >voltage. A corroded connector has a voltage drop you can measure UNDER >LOAD CURRENT....narrows down where it is. > Not true. I have a spare depth sounder (a cheap Humminbird fish > finder) that goes berserk at anything over about 15 volts. Keeping the > input voltage to all those other, more expensive instruments > controlled at 12 volts lets them run at lower temps, which in > electronics, equals longer life and greater reliability. It is impossible to put 15 VDC across a normally-charging, functional on all cells, lead acid 6-cell battery. If there is 15V on that battery you are WAY overcharging it or have corroded battery terminals causing series resistance the charging current is flowing through. This is not a problem bacause a NORMAL alternator with a working regulator will simply cut the current back, as it folds over the voltage at its 14.2VDC setting. Your fishfinder is going berserk because the regulator has lost control of your alternator's charging and is charging a battery with high internal resistance caused by a dead cell, probably, to create pulsating DC across the bad battery....that whining sound in your car stereo is caused by it. Now with several volts peak of pulsating DC riding on top of the battery voltage, the pulses are causing havoc in the sonar's digital circuits. They expect it to be running on SMOOTH DC.... >> Not true. I have a spare depth sounder (a cheap Humminbird fish >> finder) that goes berserk at anything over about 15 volts. Keeping the [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] >voltage, the pulses are causing havoc in the sonar's digital circuits. >They expect it to be running on SMOOTH DC.... See, you really don't know as much as you think. You said any marine electronic device can run on 10-18 volts, which is simply WRONG. My charging source is the alternator built into a 9.9 hp outboard. Regulation is more or less non-existent. When voltage gets up around 15 volts, I turn on some cabin lights to bring it back down. look at:http://www.logicsupply.com/products/m2_atx I use them to run my cpu, monitor and TV. Hanz >>>Not true. I have a spare depth sounder (a cheap Humminbird fish >>>finder) that goes berserk at anything over about 15 volts. Keeping the [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > non-existent. When voltage gets up around 15 volts, I turn on some cabin lights > to bring it back down. Sorry Larry you are only half right on that one. While you are correct that a properly installed and adjusted charging system will never see anything higher than 15V many things go schitzo when they see more than 13.5 to 14V. Even 12V nominal halogen bulbs will loose much of their expected life if run at battery charging voltages. Some "smart" regulators even have a "halogen protection" setting that limit charging voltage expressly for that purpose. The solution for sensitive electronics is a DC/DC converter. I have installed three on Rutu. One supplies the halogen navigation lights, one is set to 13.2 for the radios and the third also set to 13.2V is available for what ever else needs regulated power. Unlike normal voltage regulators that control voltage by generating heat DC/DC converters, while not perfect, are far more efficient. The down side is that the cheap ones can put out harmonics that show up on HF and SSB bands so they need to be well shielded and have ferrites on all leads. SignatureGlenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com > Totally unnecessary. Any voltage from 10-18VDC will run any electronics > made for boats. [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > voltage. A corroded connector has a voltage drop you can measure UNDER > LOAD CURRENT....narrows down where it is. > Sorry Larry you are only half right on that one. While you are correct that > a properly installed and adjusted charging system will never see anything [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > HF and SSB bands so they need to be well shielded and have ferrites on all > leads. What brand of DC-DC converters are you using? At the moment I need to cover: 1) Laptop, Flat Monitor, several USB hard drives. 2) DVD player and flat screen TV And I'm wondering if the rest of the stuff should be treated likewise? VHF, GPC, Autopilot, etc? Someone here had a good recomendation a year or so back. HP computer supply or some such thing that could be found on Ebay. Richard > Someone here had a good recomendation a year or so back. > HP computer supply or some such thing that could be found on Ebay. > > Richard You're looking for a HP F1064A -- Geoff www.GeoffSchultz.org >>Someone here had a good recomendation a year or so back. >>HP computer supply or some such thing that could be found on Ebay. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > -- Geoff > www.GeoffSchultz.org Yes! Thanks Geoff! Richard > Even 12V nominal halogen bulbs will loose much of their expected life > if run at battery charging voltages. Some "smart" regulators even > have a "halogen protection" setting that limit charging voltage > expressly for that purpose. Anyone dumb enough to run a halogen light bulb for anything gets everything they deserve. How silly. Humminbird used to sell one called the SureVolt. They ran about $75. When they quit selling them, they remaineder the last ones for $15-20. They would produce, IIRC, about 1.5 A of 13.8V. Not enought to run a VHF (in transmit mode), but enough to keep my GPS and fishfinder from wigging out when I started the motor and the battery got pulled down to around 8V. It's still going strong on my whaler. >> I'm trying to find a stabalizer circuit for the house battery. >> Someone (probably Larry?) a while back mentioned a device that could [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > voltage. A corroded connector has a voltage drop you can measure UNDER > LOAD CURRENT....narrows down where it is. In article <P_CdnR0_SIZMSefVnZ2dnUVZ_h3inZ2d@posted.southvalleyinternet>, > Humminbird used to sell one called the SureVolt. They ran about $75. When > they quit [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > the > battery got pulled down to around 8V. It's still going strong on my whaler. In the Jameco.com Catalog, on page 123 they sell DC to DC Switching Power supplies, of various Input and output voltages. Just a quick glance shows a 8-18 Vdc Input, 12 Vdc Regulated Output at 1.25 amps for $33US in ones'es. I use these all the time for various projects and they work very well, and I buy them from OEM Distributers, at a lot less than from Jameco. SignatureBruce in alaska add <path> after <fast> to reply > In article > <P_CdnR0_SIZMSefVnZ2dnUVZ_h3inZ2d@posted.southvalleyinternet>, [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > and they work very well, and I buy them from OEM Distributers, at a > lot less than from Jameco. Powerstream has one that puts out 13.8VDC with 9-14V input and won't shutdown on starting if the battery stays above 6VDC.. It'll put out 700 watts for 5 minutes surge and 20ADC continuous. http://www.powerstream.com/DC-PC-12V.htm idle load is only .15A |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.