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Re: Sinking
| Bruce in Bangkok | 25 Jul 2008 00:13 |
>Hi all, > I have fixed this one for a while - I used the 2 big washers [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > >Jim When you think about it the two washers and bolt idea is perfectly sound. I have a "ground plate" bolted to the side of my fiberglass boat using exactly the same technique.
When they did your "survey" did they take thickness readings of the hull? On a steel boat they should have done and furnished you with a drawing of the boat with the places where testing was done noted.
Bruce-in-Bangkok (correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)
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| jimchuffff@googlemail.com | 24 Jul 2008 20:33 |
Hi all, I have fixed this one for a while - I used the 2 big washers approach, and its completely watertight. - I'm not sure what to do long term - comment about getting it surveyed asap is what I would normally do, but it was surveyed 6 weeks ago, and passed with flying colours (min 5.5mm of steel). Makes you wonder why I paid for the survey. I'm going to remain watchful - even if another hole like this opens up I have a day or 2 to spot it and fix it, and given I work on the boat most days, I don't think it'll sink too fast. It also makes me think I need to seal up some ribs (so that the water will fill up one section of the boat good and deep, so be easier to detect/pump should it happen again), and put in some detection system. does anyone else have anything like this?
cheers
Jim
> >Hi all, > > No rush for answers on this one, but I'm sinking... I found a bit [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > Bruce-in-Bangkok > (correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom) |
| Bruce in Bangkok | 21 Jul 2008 07:49 |
>Hi all, > No rush for answers on this one, but I'm sinking... I found a bit [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] >Jim >UK The old fashion way was to whittle a tapered wood plug and drive it in the hole. The wood will swell and make a tight joint. A more modern way is two big washers, or plates, depending on the size of the hole, gaskets, bolts and sealant. On a ship they will sometimes pour a compartment half full of cement. If you can keep the water from coming in for a while you can grind the inside to clean metal and apply a fiberglass patch. Needs to be dry though. You can also get epoxy putty that can be applied under water.
Bruce-in-Bangkok (correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)
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| jimchuffff@googlemail.com | 21 Jul 2008 06:23 |
Hi all, No rush for answers on this one, but I'm sinking... I found a bit of water in the bilges and put it down to something benign, but on inspection, found a blister on the paint inside the hull, which when I burst revealed a ~2mm square hole in the hull on the bottom of the boat. I've plugged it with gaffer tape, rubber mats and bits of wood for now, but has anyone got any neat ways of fixing this without taking it out of the water (boat is a 20 tonne wrought iron/mild steel dutch barge, and a proper repair job would be ~£700)? I'm thinking a bolt with a big rubber washer on both sides and liberal use of silicon sealant. I'm hoping the rot is very localised.
cheers
Jim UK
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